Monday, 15 April 2013

Silk Road Bounty

Nara Period (645-784)

Nara was Japan’s first fixed capital from 710 to 784.  Then known as Heijo-kyo, the city was the eastern-most Silk Road destination.  Despite exposure to various cultures, Nara is considered the birthplace of Japanese culture.  This peaceful period in Japanese history parallels the Tang Dynasty in China and consequently the arts reflect a deep influence yet display a creative and restrained growth. This era is noted for its distinctive masks, Noh, used at ceremonial dances.
Todai-ji Temple
During the Nara period temples adhering to strictly to Chinese models were quickly erected. One such structure is the Todai-ji Temple in Nara (728).  The Great Buddha Hall, the main building, is the only one to survive.  It houses a huge bronze statue of Dainichi (Cosmic Buddha).  Towards the rear is a wooden column with a small square hole in it.  The line up to “ensure enlightenment” by squeezing through was rather large, so we had our fortunes (by numbers) read instead.  (Thus saving the embarrassment of getting stuck in the column…). 
Starting young
The nearby Shosoin (756) or storehouse holds Imperial belongings regarded as national treasures and world heritage items. These include lacquered and enamelled works, bronze mirrors, musical instruments, textiles and importantly, documents from the temple’s dedication ceremony in 752. The building shows Chinese influence but is purely Japanese style.  It is box shaped and raised from the ground on wooden piles made of triangular logs.  These logs swell during the rainy season blocking out the damp but in the heat shrink to let air circulate. 
Kasuga Grand Shrine
The Kasuga Grand Shrine, a Shinto shrine, was built by the powerful Fujiwara family in 768.  The shrine is famous for its bronze lanterns housed inside.  The path to the shrine runs through the famous Deer Park (1880) where we were set upon by friendly, overfed (wild?) sika deer.  These deer are said to be the sacred messengers of Shinto gods, so they rule the roost with some conviction.  We marvelled at the stone lanterns lining the path up to the shrine.
Ever-so-cute Sika Deer
The powerful Buddhist priesthood proved a burden for Emperor Kammu, who strategically moved his capital to Heian (Kyoto) in 794.  This cunning plan improved the Emperor’s coffers and deconstructed monastic power.  A change in political and religious influence was gaining momentum.  Prayer became peaceful and meditative heralding a change in art that moved into the refined Heian period.
Moss covered stone lanterns Nara Deer Park