Nara
Period (645-784)
Nara was Japan’s first fixed capital
from 710 to 784. Then known as
Heijo-kyo, the city was the eastern-most Silk Road destination. Despite exposure to various cultures, Nara is
considered the birthplace of Japanese culture.
This peaceful period in Japanese history parallels the Tang Dynasty in
China and consequently the arts reflect a deep influence yet display a creative
and restrained growth. This era is noted for its distinctive masks, Noh,
used at ceremonial dances.
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Todai-ji Temple |
During the Nara period temples adhering to strictly to
Chinese models were quickly erected. One such structure is the Todai-ji Temple in Nara (728). The Great Buddha Hall, the main building, is
the only one to survive. It houses a
huge bronze statue of Dainichi
(Cosmic Buddha).
Towards the rear is a wooden column with a small square hole in it. The line up to “ensure enlightenment” by
squeezing through was rather large, so we had our fortunes (by numbers) read
instead. (Thus saving the embarrassment
of getting stuck in the column…).
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Starting young |
The nearby Shosoin
(756) or storehouse holds Imperial belongings regarded as national treasures
and world heritage items. These include lacquered and enamelled works, bronze
mirrors, musical instruments, textiles and importantly, documents from the
temple’s dedication ceremony in 752. The building shows Chinese influence but
is purely Japanese style. It is box
shaped and raised from the ground on wooden piles made of triangular logs. These logs swell during the rainy season
blocking out the damp but in the heat shrink to let air circulate.
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Kasuga Grand Shrine |
The Kasuga Grand
Shrine, a Shinto shrine, was built by the powerful Fujiwara family in 768. The shrine is famous for its bronze lanterns
housed inside. The path to the shrine
runs through the famous Deer Park (1880) where we were set upon by friendly,
overfed (wild?) sika deer. These deer
are said to be the sacred messengers of Shinto gods, so they rule the roost
with some conviction. We marvelled at
the stone lanterns lining the path up to the shrine.
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Ever-so-cute Sika Deer |
The powerful Buddhist
priesthood proved a burden for Emperor Kammu, who strategically moved his
capital to Heian (Kyoto) in 794. This cunning plan improved the Emperor’s coffers
and deconstructed monastic power. A
change in political and religious influence was gaining momentum. Prayer became peaceful and meditative
heralding a change in art that moved into the refined Heian period.
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Moss covered stone lanterns Nara Deer Park |