Beautiful Museums

Costumes & Crafts

After walking Nara, we made our way back to Kyoto to visit the Museums and sites we had skipped earlier on in our tour (due to the evening viewing of the famous Kamogawa Odori, the annual dance festival performed by Pontocho maiko).  It does pay to be flexible!

Fuzoku Hakubutsu-kan, the Period Costume Museum, shows costumes from the different periods of Japan’s history; Samurai, fire fighters and Edo-era kimonos.   I fell for Ainu costumes, having initially seen one at our workshop with Master Indigo Dyer, Mr Kenichi Utsuki.

Ainu Costume

We were also treated to a demonstration of yuzen silk painting. Kimono lengths and obis were being hand painted in an intricate, multicolour process.   I must admit that I’ve quite forgotten where we saw this painting and stencil dyeing demonstration but am hazarding a guess that it was the Yuzen-en Gallery.  Whilst there we saw the most magnificent kimono of gingko leaves in yellows on a background of grey and white mountain mist.  What a shame I didn’t get a photo of it!  Kyo-yuzen silk dyeing (actually stencilling) is special to Kyoto.

After the museums we headed back to the Shinmonzen-dori Antique shopping district in the Gion area for one last look and to purchase yet more fabrics.  These were rather special as these were antiques!   

Having arrived at our hotel rather late (& a wee bit weary) that evening, we stopped long enough for a noodle dinner at a small shop in the Kyoto railway station complex.  Unbelievably, it was our last night and we wanted to celebrate this wonderful tour and thank our excellent host, Margaret.

Tucking in to cook-your-own noodles

That night we went to sleep to the sound of Bosozoku, motorcycle gangs, who noisily rev their bikes and speed off in races through the streets.

Blue & White Heaven

Arimatsu Shibori: Heritage Dyes

Our trip to visit Arimatsu of course came with many pleasures.  One was another ride on the Shinkansen to Nagoya (1 hour) before hopping on a local train to Arimatsu, blue & white heaven.

On the road again....

Arimatsu is a small former post town on the Tokaido, the old trade route connecting Tokyo and Kyoto.  Settled as early as 1608 by order of the Owari (a samurai clan), it was the 42^nd station; one of the government sanctioned stops between the two cities.  Hiroshige made a number of prints of this famous town.  Takeda Shokuro pioneered the craft of shibori as way for the small town to make an income from the many travellers. 

The main street of the old quarter has glimpses of its celebrated past.  Lined with dark timber houses typical of its Edo era beginnings, the area is most worthy of its cultural heritage endorsements. Fine preserved merchant houses accommodate a museum, kimono stores and fabric shops, including a Japanese patchwork shop.  We visited as many as we could, starting with the Arimatsu Narumi Shibori Kaikan.

This was a streetscape scene

Arimatsu is celebrated as a centre for shibori, a tie dye (resist) technique perfected to a fine art over many years of practice. Fabrics are folded, wrapped, tied, stitched and twisted to make amazing patterns.  Traditionally indigo (blue) was used but now it is not unusual to see many colours.   The process involves a number of steps, traditionally divided into male and female tasks.  Designs are prepared, templates cut and then carefully printed onto cotton cloth. 

Generally, a kimono piece is a narrow 14” wide
by 13 yards (12m) as shown 

These patterns are then tied – a process that can take up to several months.  Once ready for dyeing, the fabrics are dunked into vats of dye. Then the process of undoing all those knots – another 3 to 4 days of work in some cases, reveals beautiful patterns. Some special pieces are submitted to a number of dye baths to produce subtle yet stunning pieces. 

I found an interesting web site, ohmyhandmade with links that explain the process of shibori and offer tutorials.  Hmm, well, I’ll just add that to the “Things to Do List” for Ron (much later ron!). 

Of course, our obsessive fabric shopping did not stop with Arimatsu.  We backtracked to Nagoya to hit a few contemporary fabric stores.  Sadly our budget had been blown and a tempting large department store would only take cash.  We were nearly out of money!  So, after returning to Kyoto on late train and in order to preserve our dwindling funds for any unexpected treasures in the two tour days we had remaining, we had soup and rolls for dinner.  Very noble indeed!

Miso Soup for the Soul

Back to Gion

After a Western breakfast served Japanese style and bidding our hosts farewell, we did a quick last minute shop in Takayama (as you do!) before boarding our train to glide silently down the mountains and back to busy Kyoto. 

With a few hours to spare, we made for Nishiki-koji Food Market. Considered Kyoto’s Kitchen, the complex started as a fish market in the early 1300’s and is now an amazing array of traditional timber shopfronts lining narrow covered alleys. 

Needless to say, whilst we enjoyed nosing about the fresh foods section, we were waylaid by a patchwork shop, K's Bee Quilts.  Unlike some of the fabric stores we had already seen, this shop was selling the latest in American goods.  We couldn’t help but admire the amazing work on display.

 

Somehow we also managed to fit in a visit to a famous Kimono shop.  The staff kindly displayed a few of their absolutely amazing kimonos, despite guessing (correctly) that we couldn’t possibly be able to afford them.  Just to round off our cultural costume experience, we also gazed in the window of the shop of a master obi and braid maker.

Later that evening, we walked to Gion Corner through Gion area with its well-preserved old houses that spoke to us of the old days in Kyoto.  

We descended upon a wonderful antiques shop and managed to find a few textiles and other souvenirs of our trip. 



By now we were well aware that our tour time was drawing to a close.   Surely we couldn’t go home empty-handed! 

Luckily, we caught site of a Maiko whilst there: it must have been late, perhaps 7 or 8pm, as this is the time they leave their studios for their ochaya (tea house) appointments. She was most obliging and graciously allowed us to take photographs before hurrying off to her duties.

 

Cultural Immersion

Ryokan Etiquette

Ryokan Hakuun

Perhaps it would be better to say up front that we didn’t quite master the fine art of “Ryokan Etiquette”.  However our hosts at Ryokan Hakuun were most accommodating and our days spent in the lovely village of Takayama passed way too quickly. 

So, let’s begin!  We arrived full of expectation.  Shoes were removed at the front door.  Then we were shown to our large room screened off with shoji (rice paper) screens and tatami mat flooring.  Only a single low table was centred in the room.  On the table we found our arrival tea waiting for us. 

 

Our traditional inn had a hot spring (onsen) although only a few guests followed the Japanese custom of the hot communal soak.  Some of the rooms had a traditional timber tub and we learned that the custom is to shower and soap yourself first before stepping into the tub (no soap – soaking only).  We also discovered the (toilet or bathroom) slippers routine and were caught out more than once in embarrassing circumstances. 

 

Doors to our rooms

 

After bathing, we went to our dining room dressed in a provided blue & white cotton yukata (wrapped left over right thank you) to meet up with our fellow travellers for a sumptuous feast of assorted Japanese foods.   We finished it off with a taste of sake…hmmm…not so sure about that!

Our first night's dinner

We retired to our beds - futons had been laid out on tatami mats.  All that cool country air, picture perfect streets in the old town, doses of cherry blossom and now a nice warm bed!  It was all very relaxing. 

Seafood Dinner

A wonderful view through every door

 

Traditional Costumes

 

The Aoi Matsuri, one of the oldest festivals in the world (6^th c), is named after the spiked leaves of the aoi (hollyhock).  The leaves are said to have various powers including protection against lightning and earthquakes. 

The main event is the grand procession, which we had booked in to see, although there are other events going on such as an archery display on horseback at the Shimogamo Shrine and a horse race between two teams dressed in 8^th c costumes at the Kamigamo Shrine. 

The Aoi Matsuri festival procession is made up of two parts: the Imperial Messenger’s retinue and that of the Saio-dai, a young woman who is the focus of the parade. It is traditionally celebrated on the 15^th May.

The Imperial Messenger’s procession consists of a carriage pulled by oxen, flowered umbrellas, courtiers and court ladies dressed in costumes of noble court life during the Heian period (794-1185). In Heian times the Saio-dai was always an imperial princess.  She rides on a palanquin and is dressed in imperial Heian robes of 12 layers. (I had found an interesting video showing how these heavy robes are worn but the link is broken.  Maybe one day I'll happen upon another.) The colourful retinue of followers (some 600 participants) also wear costumes of the imperial court; all decorated in some way with the hollyhock leaf.  The parade proceeds from the Imperial Palace to Shimoganmo Shrine and then on to Kamigamo Shrine where final ritual ceremonies take place.  In terms of manners and customs, this parade is certainly a colourful reminder of ancient traditions.   

We saw the parade from a vantage point near the Imperial Palace (1855) considered central Kyoto, once a walled district dating from the 16^th c.  The Palace’s original structure dates from 794, but fire and earthquake has seen it demolished on occasions.  Enthronement ceremonies and state functions are still held here.  The Palace is surrounded by a beautiful park and after the parade had snaked its way passed us, we strolled along its perimeter to look for cherry blossom remnants which were quickly disintegrating in the rain. 

Imperial Palace

 

Tree art

My humble notes from this trip remind me that we stopped at a local Maccas desperate for a milk fix.  It's quite amazing what you miss from your normal diet and what lengths you will go to find it.  We rounded off the shake with a green tea ice-cream though - definitely a favourite local treat!

On the way back we walked over the Kamogawa River, said to have exceptional waters for setting dyes. Sadly, the rain set in so we didn’t get to the antique district with its speciality textile & craft shops.  Another day perhaps!

Ginza Lowdown

Sensational Quilts

This was one of those days when you are so pleased someone else is responsible for knowing where and when you have to be in certain places.  Our schedule was punishing but we wanted to make the most of a day in Tokyo and a visit to the Quilt Exhibition.  We obligingly bought our bento boxed lunch, stopping to admire a few interesting ones on the station platform, and marvelled at how polite everyone was. 

The train arrived on time, in exactly the right spot (marked on the platform) and within a short time we were speeding our way towards Tokyo on the Shinkansen – say that again, the Shinkansen. 

Mt Fuji declined to make a show for us, although we took photos anyway because our trip back to Kyoto would be much later in the evening. 

Meiji Shrine is located in a park, a tranquil spot in a busy city.  Built in 1920 in honour of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, it was destroyed in WW2 and reconstructed in 1958.  It’s the place to see traditional Shinto weddings.  Somehow, our timing was perfect and we saw some lovely traditional costumes.

Shinto Wedding at the Meiji Shrine

In contrast, it would seem that some of Tokyo’s youth prefer a more outlandish dress.  We stopped on our way in Harajuku (also see Jingu Bashi) to people watch as the young ones strutted their stuff in wild to conservative costume; more for each other I think, than the many tourist cameras flashing.   Close by is the Omotosando-dori area where we (over) indulged at the Oriental Bazaar, a wonderland of all things exotic for tourists, including textiles.  I concentrated on buying fabric tailor samples which are just so lovely.  Maybe I’ll stop looking and get on with some sewing?  No promises – even to myself! 

Nurses & Doctors were the theme for this year..

After negotiating the subway (& deciphering ticket machines) we made for the fabulous Ginza Quilt Exhibition.  We were not able to take photos of this quilt show, so all I have is of a few that decorated the front window and entrance to the exhibits.  The Empress’s Kimono was on display too (just one of many I’m guessing) but no photos so no memory…  The exhibition was inspirational, the merchant’s stalls amazing and we took a headful of ideas away with a few notes & sketches; and a certain envy of the high quality workmanship! 

Outside the Quilt Exhibition, we were fortunate to meet up with one of Margaret’s friends.  We spoke briefly before heading off for some more shopping, this time “real” fabric stores.  A highlight was the multistorey Yuzawaya (I think?), although a cash only policy came as a shock to us at the end of a big spend day.  Y & I were already over our daily limits having hit Mitsukoshi in Nihonbashi and were weighed down by our earlier purchases anyway.  But soldier on we must; somehow our wallets stretched to buy just that little bit more.

(There’s plenty of helpful & up-to-date information on the internet if you want to visit fabric & craft stores in Tokyo.  Try this advice from comeonilene who can direct you to some interesting shops. Enjoy the planning process!) 

Butterfly Dancing

Glimpsing Geisha  

First stop on our itinerary was Ryoanji Temple raked gardens in the Rakusai precinct.  These gardens feature in the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” not to mention many famous artworks since they were built. This Zen karesansui (dry landscape) is made up of large rocks set in a landscape of sand & pebbles. It is meant to induce a state of “unadorned bliss”.

After not quite achieving a state of serenity due to the influx of fellow travellers, we moved on from Ryoanji, to the nearby Kinkakuji Temple, renowned for its Golden Pavilion and spectacular walking gardens.

Although we came across few textiles, it was certainly clear that artists could not fail to be inspired by these wonderful surroundings.

Inspired after our garden visit, we were treated to a wonderful reminder of Kyoto’s traditional past.  The Kamogawa Odori is an annual dance festival performed by Pontocho geisha (or geiko as they are known in Kyoto) and maiko (geiko in training).  These performances allow visitors a glimpse into the exquisite Japanese art that is usually only available to the affluent.

Pontocho, designed by the Portuguese in the Edo era, is now full of restaurants and teahouses – and tourists!  The Pontocho entertainment district is set along the west bank of the Kamogawa River and has long been renowned for the beauty and theatrical abilities of its dancers. In the Odori (1872), make-up, textiles, costumes and stage design must all meet the demanding standards of the long-established geiko’s world. 

All performances we watched were sophisticated and very colourful with an obvious high criteria to meet.  We were reminded of what remains (and once was) Japan’s famous “flower & willow” world.  This world is symbolised in the “Dream of the Butterfly” dance.  We were fortunate to have tickets at Pontocho’s Kaburenjo Theatre to watch maiko perform. Sadly, we were unable to take photos (but understand why) so my only reminders are a few brochures and tickets we picked up along the way. 

I should add that geiko (Kyoto geisha) means refined person.  They continue to be entertainers of the highest order (& well beyond our budget to see perform).  We are so fortunate to have these women maintaining a tradition and cultural heritage in our modern society.

One of my favourite reads is the classic work of Murasaki Shikabu, “The Tale of the Genji”.  This work is considered the world’s first novel and dates from the Heian Period (794-1185) .  Even more amazing is that it has been written by a woman (given the very strict codes of conduct prevalent in society at that time).  More about it on wiki here & a little on a previous post.

Utagawa (1797-1861) - a stunning print based on the novel

Mitsuoki (1617-1691) portrait of Murasaki Shikabu