Dancing in the Streets

Madeira

Quinta do Lorde 4-15 December 2017

Having enjoyed the Azores in 2011, we had high hopes for our visit to Madeira; albeit a winter arrival that we could do little about.  Funchal was lively and its mild climate attracted those visitors wishing to escape Europe’s chilly December snowfalls.  Christmas celebrations were in full swing and there was much to occupy our time.  Perhaps the best feature of these activities was our entrée to regular cultural events practised on Madeira since its discovery (1419) and subsequent settlement.

Despite Madeira’s relative isolation, its position as a vital seaport on the “Columbus route” across the Atlantic to the riches of the West Indies, allowed its culture to survive.  I wasn’t able to locate an ethnographic museum as such in the time we had, but a vibrant Christmas Market in Funchal more than made up for it. 

A wonderful diorama of island life unfolded as we walked the length of the market between the Cathedral and the old Fort.  Stalls of local produce and foods included island grown fruits and vegetables (a rich, almost tropical collection), meats and deli items, tastings of boutique beers, and a smattering of spirits, local brew poncha and wines.  Madeira included, naturally!  Shakespeare mentions Madeira wine and Winston Churchill savoured it on holiday here.  We were also treated to traditional song, dance and music, enhanced by colourful costumes, those fascinating carapucha caps and lively performers.  It was all so welcoming and fun, yet unpretentious. 

Madeira Cathedral

The closest brush I had at the Markets with textiles (other than costumes, of course) was an older lady preparing wool for spinning.  Language of course, kept me from knowing more about the extent of home-based weaving on the island.  Madeira, however is famously known for its lace work, the best quality produced by hand.  It is said to have been introduced to the island in 1854 by an Englishwoman, Elizabeth Phelps.  There was plenty of opportunity to purchase a piece in shops at the regular market or tourist souvenir shops.  Buyer beware however, and if you want an authentic piece made from Madeira linen, ask at Tourist Information booths for directions. 

I have to confess that I did not buy any lacework as I have tablecloths a-plenty from India (and you’ll appreciate the connection here) as we ordered from a Convent via a supplier in Goa, a former Portuguese colony (1510-1961). 

Here are some links to more (brief) information about Madeira textiles:  Madeira Live;  Visit Madeira;  &  KDD & Co

For visuals of Maderia Lace enjoy: Bordal  &  Madeira Sun

And, if you’re tempted by all the talk of markets and food and want to cook some delicious Portuguese food, then this blog, Easy Portuguese Recipes, looks interesting for those authentic recipes.  I particularly loved passionfruit juice, “O Maracujá da Madeira”, even the boxed supermarket variety was delicious.  So was the passionfruit poncha.  

Magic Fingers

Burano: Island of Lace Makers

14^th July 2015

Step 1: Take a Vaporetto to the Venetian Lagoon
Islands of Murano & Burano

Step 2. Don't forget to stop off in Murano to see
some real Glass magic too!.

Step 3: The Burano Lace Museum is located in the Piazza
  near the Catholic Church

Skilled craftsmanship. Murano
Glass Table Decorations

Travelling to the islands is such a lovely diversion from bustling Venice.  First, there’s the vaporetto ride across the muddy lagoon bypassing intriguing islands little visited.  

Next, it seems compulsory to undertake a diversionary circuit of Murano with its historic yet bespoke glassmaking furnaces and sparkling showrooms that collide on narrow streets with fellow day tripping visitors. Be amazed by the skilled craftsmanship and versatility of glass.  Little wonder palaces were adorned with it.

Finally, we arrived on Burano to be greeted by the sunshine of colour radiating from Murano’s terraced houses, spreading cheer over cobbled streets and narrow canals. 

Burano’s heyday for needle lace spanned the 16^th to 18^th century, crafts women having been introduced to the skill via links to Cyprus.  In 1872, a school to teach and revive the skill was opened but as with many handmade crafts, its production is time-consuming and therefore costly.  Much of the lace available in those rather too-plentiful souvenir stalls has been made by machine and not on the Island.  It is possible though, to nose about and purchase the real thing - La Perla, Merletti d’Arte Martina & Creazioni Monica have been suggested in my reading material.  What a wonderful way to support a traditional craft and what a treasure to own!

Embroidery & Lace

A well stocked Museum

The Burano Museum and School of Lacemaking is a delightful (and cool) repository of all things lace.  The Museum showcases local talents and a rich legacy that skilled Burano women have created.  It offers examples of the many varieties and uses for lace, explaining that women often specialized in a single stitch.  Apparently, there are seven specific stitches, so I am sure competition was fierce…  Burano’s reputation was so established as a centre for the finest quality lace that Leonardo da Vinci was drawn here in 1481 to purchase a cloth suitable for Milan Cathedral’s main altar. 

How to wear your Lace & Silk with Style