Tuesday 30 April 2013

Classic Restraint

Muromachi (1333-1573)

In 1333, Ashikaga Takauji overthrew the Kamakura dynasty and became shogun.  He moved his government back to Kyoto, into the Muromachi district.  With the return of an imperial court, the arts returned to the aristocracy, becoming elitist. Zen influence regained confidence perhaps best demonstrated in monochromatic ink paintings which drew inspiration from nature.   Talents considered typically Japanese flourished included landscape painting, classical noh drama, flower arranging, and the tea ceremony. These disciplines, featuring classic restraint and simplicity, were a direct result of Zen influence.
Kinkaku-ji Temple (1397) since restored
Many of Kyoto’s famous gardens and temples date from this period, which is considered the classical age of garden design.  Integrating buildings into landscapes was an important feature.  The Golden Pavilion, a Zen Buddhist temple Kinkaku-ji (1397) is a beautiful example.  As we walked the gardens, we learned the temple’s tragic history - it was burned down by a novice monk in 1950.  Thankfully restored, the temple’s top two storeys glitter with gilt making it a perfect picture reflected in the lake.
Garden Art
We were fortunate to visit the famous rock garden at Ryoan-ji Zen Temple before crowds arrived.  It was pleasant to be able to observe the garden and get a feel for its Zen spirit.  The garden is quite small, has little vegetation (only moss) and is made up of stones set in white gravel.  Fifteen stones are arranged in specific groups and the gravel is raked daily by monks.  The garden is meant to be contemplated from a seated position on the veranda, where you are not meant to see the garden in its entirety.  This ability only comes only with enlightenment. 
Ryoan-ji Zen Temple Garden is even difficult to photograph
Elaborate tea ceremonies came into being during this period.  Like many cultured activities, the tea ceremony, conducted within a rigid framework of rules, provided guests an opportunity to appreciate artisan skills.  In particular, the tea ceremony gave rise to new types of pottery.  Cracks or chips were often repaired with coloured lacquer, which added interest and value to a pot or cup.
Perhaps not quite in keeping with tradition
but we learned so much
Japan gradually became overwhelmed by ambitious noblemen resulting in a general breakdown of law and order.  The Onin War broke out in 1467 and Kyoto was almost destroyed.