Friday, 19 April 2013

Baroque Vigour

Heian Period (794-1185)

This was the period of “art as entertainment” but not quite as we know it!  It was a peaceful and very prosperous era.  During early times, Chinese influence was still felt but civil unrest in China forced Japan to look internally for inspiration.  There was a flowering of literature, the arts and religious thinking, including a new interest in mysticism which also affected art.
In the Temple Gardens
Art spread to homes, not just temples, with painted wall panels, albums or scrolls available.  Rules and conventions strictly guided painting but there was some freedom to experiment.  Caricature came into being; artists depicted animals carrying on human activities.  This was probably produced by monks.  Lavish decoration was connected with Buddhism whilst a revival of Shintoism’s previous use of symbolism evolved into image-making. 
Free to follow new practices, teaching monasteries were built in surrounding countryside and otherwise “inaccessible” areas to provide worshippers with a sense of harmony with nature and peace to communicate with ancestors.  Temples located in landscaped gardens of willow and cherry trees was a popular and elegant improvement.  Due to Kyoto’s surrounding rugged terrain, the pagoda’s basic shape had to be altered - its base became cylindrical, supporting a raised, rounded roof.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Kiyomizu-dera Temple (778) set in the hills surrounding Kyoto takes its name from the waterfall (pure water) within the complex.  The temple is a massive timber structure amazingly completed without nails and its large main hall veranda offers impressive city views.  We stopped to take the waters, check if the cherry blossoms were still flowering and people-watch. Pilgrims negotiated an impressive array of fortune tellers, souvenir stalls and incense sellers while Maiko in elaborate costumes added to the beauty of the gardens.
Garden Stone Work
Built alongside the south gate to the Heian Kyoto, To-ji Temple (796), one of three, stood as a mark of protection for its capital.  The pagoda, the tallest wooden tower in Japan, is set in beautiful gardens.  Although not able to visit the Temple we were fortunate enough have our last day scouring the famous flea market. With suitcases already bulging, we managed to cram in yet more fabrics, pieces of old kimono and even some beautiful ceramics.