Remembering The Blue Pearl

Beautiful Sky Blue to remind me of Chefchaouen

Whilst on the subject of handloomed weaving, I wasn’t sure if I’d posted photos of the beautiful, traditional woollen blankets we found in Chefchaouen, Morocco (suitably measuring up to it's nickname, The Blue Pearl).  

Weavers, generally men, sit in bolt-hole shops along the narrow, picturesque streets of Chefchaouen producing blankets, cushions and rugs in the most wonderful colours.  Now, I do use the term ‘woollen’ lightly as I expect there is a scarcity of the real thing in my blanket given how inexpensive acrylic yarns are nowadays.  However, I am only guessing and have no evidence to support such a negative remark.  Further, the pillows I purchased the following year when visiting with friends are standing up well to quite some punishment on our equally well-used settee.  No sign of pilling, on the cushions or the blanket, so I may well have to eat my words. 

And I couldn't leave the cushions behind, right?

A summary of our finds on this tour through Morocco & subsequent stops in Chefchaouen are covered in earlier Textile Tourist posts which can be easily found via the Morocco 2012 link over in the sidebar.  Even more detail can be found on the Windjammer3 site (link here).  I would most happily fill my house with goodies that can be found in any of the souks we visited…but maybe, mostly the Aladdin’s cave that is Fez! 

I've just been re-reading a wonderful travel book by Eric Newby (a Brit), "On the Shores of the Mediterranean", a journey he took in the 1980's with his wife, Wanda.  The whole book is fascinating to read again, now that we've managed to visit some of the many places he's written about.  Without doubt, he captures the essence of Fez; Moroccan to the core and so culturally rich.  Visit if you can, you'll be all the better for doing so...if not a little poorer!!  

I found this photo of an embroidered Horse Cover
from Fez.  Its in Wiki along with other location facts.

By the by, even though it's Autumn here in the Med, it really is Spring (well, only just) at home.  Hence my need to tidy up & refresh the blog a little with a rather sweet, new look.  Even more links to follow when I find them again...

Butterfly Dancing

Glimpsing Geisha  

First stop on our itinerary was Ryoanji Temple raked gardens in the Rakusai precinct.  These gardens feature in the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” not to mention many famous artworks since they were built. This Zen karesansui (dry landscape) is made up of large rocks set in a landscape of sand & pebbles. It is meant to induce a state of “unadorned bliss”.

After not quite achieving a state of serenity due to the influx of fellow travellers, we moved on from Ryoanji, to the nearby Kinkakuji Temple, renowned for its Golden Pavilion and spectacular walking gardens.

Although we came across few textiles, it was certainly clear that artists could not fail to be inspired by these wonderful surroundings.

Inspired after our garden visit, we were treated to a wonderful reminder of Kyoto’s traditional past.  The Kamogawa Odori is an annual dance festival performed by Pontocho geisha (or geiko as they are known in Kyoto) and maiko (geiko in training).  These performances allow visitors a glimpse into the exquisite Japanese art that is usually only available to the affluent.

Pontocho, designed by the Portuguese in the Edo era, is now full of restaurants and teahouses – and tourists!  The Pontocho entertainment district is set along the west bank of the Kamogawa River and has long been renowned for the beauty and theatrical abilities of its dancers. In the Odori (1872), make-up, textiles, costumes and stage design must all meet the demanding standards of the long-established geiko’s world. 

All performances we watched were sophisticated and very colourful with an obvious high criteria to meet.  We were reminded of what remains (and once was) Japan’s famous “flower & willow” world.  This world is symbolised in the “Dream of the Butterfly” dance.  We were fortunate to have tickets at Pontocho’s Kaburenjo Theatre to watch maiko perform. Sadly, we were unable to take photos (but understand why) so my only reminders are a few brochures and tickets we picked up along the way. 

I should add that geiko (Kyoto geisha) means refined person.  They continue to be entertainers of the highest order (& well beyond our budget to see perform).  We are so fortunate to have these women maintaining a tradition and cultural heritage in our modern society.

One of my favourite reads is the classic work of Murasaki Shikabu, “The Tale of the Genji”.  This work is considered the world’s first novel and dates from the Heian Period (794-1185) .  Even more amazing is that it has been written by a woman (given the very strict codes of conduct prevalent in society at that time).  More about it on wiki here & a little on a previous post.

Utagawa (1797-1861) - a stunning print based on the novel

Mitsuoki (1617-1691) portrait of Murasaki Shikabu

Artistic Women

More on the Heian Period

Visiting the Heian Shrine

Although not a construct of this era the Heian Shrine, a partial reproduction of the Heian Palace, was planned in 1895 to commemorate 1100 years of Heian-kyo’s existence.  Later, it came to symbolise the determination of Kyoto’s citizens to revive diminishing fortunes and a languishing culture after the capital was moved to Tokyo.  Graceful traditional court life is reflected in the brightly coloured shrine with its vermillion pillars and green roof.  We wandered past various buildings, admiring them for their dignified grandeur, then took some time to walk the Chinese inspired gardens.  Extensive grounds, known as Okazaki Park, contains museums, ornamental pools and a zoo.  Maruyama Park leads through giant overhanging oaks, inner gardens and ponds.  April is Cherry Blossom time and we hoped that a few blooms might still be left.  However, the heat and humidity had returned in earnest so we missed out on lavish tourist brochure displays. 

Garden views were special

Lacquer work was popularised during the Heian period. First discovered in China, lacquer work was introduced to Japan as early as 3 AD.  Most early examples can be found in Shosoin, Nara.  By the Heian period, craftsmen had achieved a high degree of skill and perfection and it was much in demand by the aristocracy and used as we use plastics today. Traditionally, lacquer is made by tightly covering a wooden core with silk.  Unishi (filtered sap of the lacquer tree which dries on contact with air) was painted over this core in a number of coats.  Each layer was left to dry in a damp chamber to prevent cracking.  Colour was enhanced by adding iron filings, gold, bronze and tin dust (metallic). Pearl shell inlay was also used.  The item was finished with a transparent coating. 

Check Book Depository
 or Amazon

The development of native characters in literature led to a popular trend of “love stories”, some written and illustrated by women.  This popular pastime led to an innovative art form – e-maki or the picture scroll.  The best known is “Tale of Prince Genji”.  An epic novel, it was written in the year 1000 by Murasaki Shikibu, a noblewoman of Kyoto. Her story tells of a life in an aristocratic society bound by courtly customs and is a fascinating read.  This site has some nice photographs too.

While courtly elegance sustained the aristocracy, a powerful force was on the rise in the provinces – the samurai class (1156).  

The powerful Fujiwara family was undermined and destroyed.  Rebellion ensued and finally a military government was established some 500 miles from Kyoto.  Life under the Samurai or warriors was austere and based on feudal social order.

Almost a brush with fame

Since becoming a slave to marina book exchanges, my reading matter has grown to cover all manner of subject.  Let me tell you how popular Clive Cussler is!  And did I mention that Dirk Pitt is hot on the trail of all those nasty types? Yes, yes, I’m a NUMA junkie….   It started with my addiction to Sea Hunt.  Remember that 1960’s TV show with Lloyd Bridges as famous hunk, Mike (blub, blub and then I saw it..) Nelson. 

So it was with some surprise that we came upon the USS Deep Quest in a marina berth located in downtown Stirling Harbor. Dressed for action in basic black, accessorised with Jet Ski and menacing machine gun, this mini-sub looked just perfect for a starring role in the next Cussler thriller. The only thing lacking was a jaunty Dirk Pitt leaning on an outrageously expensive car. Well, maybe next time!

The marina is also home to the cutest little tug.  He’s actually a working lad; not a thrill or a pleasure seeker.  But I swear I saw him in a Disney movie once!  The Cap’n thinks I’ve been doing way too much reading lately!

A Sailor's Lounge book exchange is a wonderful thing.  I've discovered so many interesting authors that I would have otherwise not known about or ignored.  Orhan Pamuk is an example - I found his novel "Red" in our boatyard laundry in Trinidad.  A similar book exchange concept here in my own neighbourhood is a "Street Library".  It's all such a great way to encourage reading and neighbourliness..  Don't we all need a little trust and kindness?

Indigo - Taking it Further than Ever

At Book Depository

While on the subject of colour, try to get your hands on Victoria Finlay’s fascinating travelogue, “Color”.  Aside from interesting facts about the history and development of various colours (murex – a purple from predatory sea snails), you really begin to understand how important colour has been to us through-out history. 

There's a chapter dedicated to indigo and it makes you really think about how world's collided as the demand for these natural colouring substances increased.  The ready availability of synthetic dyes has certainly changed us.

Why do we love colour?  Mary Schoeser suggests in "World Textiles" that the period between 3000 – 400BC (Bronze & Iron Ages) is more a Dye and Loom Age.  Discoveries reveal advanced skills in both crafts; more than we credit them for having had.  These skills have left a cultural imprint that is still significant and very relevant today. It’s in our bones you see….

In my Indian indigo kurta in Nepal, 2005

Indigo is the oldest known dye, dating to about 2500BC, and the earliest centre for its production and processing is considered to be India.  Indigo, a heavenly blue, has been seen as a sign of wealth and luxury; having protective properties – both spiritually and for health reasons (insect repellent) across many civilizations  and an embryonic motivator in world resource trading (and cross-cultural sharing?). 

Indigo from Hill Tribes in Vietnam, 2007

Hill Tribes in Vietnam continue an indigo tradition to this day. It is a complex mix of highly technical skills learnt over generations and infused religious/spiritual beliefs. In Japan’s Edo Period, indigo dyed cotton was quite possibly the uniform of the masses since silk was a forbidden cloth, unless you were the emperor, of course!  That tradition lives on today and no more so than in our favourite casual wear – blue jeans. We, who work with our hands, call ourselves blue collar workers……

At the Aizome Workshop in Kyoto, 2000

I had the great privilege in 2000 (still looking for my photos) of meeting a 3^rd generation Aizome (indigo dye) Master, Kenichi Utsuki in Aizenkobo, at his family’s aizome studio, itself dating from 1850’s.  Located deep in the fascinating and historic Nishijin textile neighbourhood of old Kyoto, we struggled to find the studio, being waylaid by so many seriously tempting sights.  Not to worry, the smell of the fermenting vats of dye led us to his studio door.  If you love to dye, if you love sensuous shades of blue, if you thrill at the look and touch of traditional hand-dyed fabrics, if you gasp at the skills of a master dyer, then this is definitely the place to be.

Shades of Indigo in Yorktown USA, 2009

So why am I bringing this to your attention?  Well, indigo was eventually a major crop for South Carolina (and thrived in Jamaica and the Virgin Islands) so it is hardly surprising that Yorktown farmers in 1780's were using it to colour their clothes.

Blue glazed tiles from Yorktown.
Blue was a favourite colour

Not an Exact Science

If you want to try some natural dyes yourself
 follow India Flint's instructions. Try Amazon

Getting back to those beautiful natural dyes, early settlers in the Tidewater had 3 dye sources readily on hand – animal, vegetable and mineral.  Mineral of course goes back to 3000BC perhaps when some early artist found that ochres stained his (or her) animal skin cape or twig brushes. 

Over the years, others noted that there were  dyes which left a lasting colour without help (substantive; like beetroot juice on my white shirt!) and others, adjective dyes, which required some pre-treatment of the base fabric with a mordant to help the dyes bite.  The oldest known mordant is urine but alum, tin or iron is more common.  After the dye has taken, it needs to be “set”, commonly with a salt and vinegar mix. 

Aniline dyes were developed in the 1850’s; a chemical process which produced vivid colours.  Procion dye is one I’ve recently played with but along with technical advance, comes inherent dangers and the need to wear a face mask, rubber gloves and big aprons. And be especially careful when discarding unwanted mixtures. I also used a washing machine (heaps of water) and a dryer (heaps of electricity) to arrive at a finished product. 

Sample Board : Black Walnut, Brazilwood & Cochineal

So heritage or natural dyes seem a much gentler alternative.  Samples at the Yorktown 1780’s farm included dyes made from locally available materials –  black walnut, brazilwood, cochineal (from Central America), indigo (a major crop for South Carolina) or woad, logwood, madder, onion skins and of course, tobacco leaves made up a modest but beautifully soft palette. 

Sample Board: Logwood, Madder, Onion Skins & Tobacco

Preparing a dye pot is also time consuming and requires, even today, lots of chopping, grinding and crushing. Many recipes are closely guarded secrets.  Luckily, India Flint, a talented Aussie, has shared many of her secrets in her book, Eco Colour. Otherwise, there are a few easy recipes out there if you scour the internet.  

Me, I’m off to find a bit of fabric.  I’ve just cut a pomegranate and it has the most beautiful ruby red juice I’ve ever seen!    

More River Ramblings

Try Amazon or Book Depository

I've not long finished reading Kate Grenville's "The Secret River" and can recommend it as a wonderful, even riveting read.  It is of course an historical novel set in part, on the Hawkesbury River. I really felt her connection with the river.  Kate Grenville saw it as a living thing; part of an ancient landscape. Her story tells of  the not-so-easy life of our early settlers; some rouges and scoundrels, others mesmerised by opportunities.  It also tells of the fate of some of our original inhabitants, but I won't spoil the story for you.  It does make you want to do a bit of work tracing your own family history though!

Back in the Saddle

Now where did that old saying come from?  Anyway, I don't really want to know as we're back into those renovations again after an all too brief interlude in the Caribbean.  Yes, it was nice.  Yes, it took our minds off flooring, paint samples and my furniture graveyard (those bits and pieces you collect over the years to restore...).  It's a bit like those UFO quilts really.  Yes, my garden shed is up and running, with potential to be a working studio, one day.  And no, quilt finishing fairies do not exist, especially not in your garden shed! 

I certainly needed this little read (Art & fear) after my most recent course.  My personal outcomes were 1. failure to complete set homework; 2. inability to generate many fresh ideas and 3. a general lack of, well, most everything really.  Where to from here?  I'll let you know when I've digested the book - figuratively speaking, of course! 
Roll on 2009.....

Autumn & Kimonos

There is a delicious chill in the air. A sure sign that Autumn is on its way. Somehow Summer passed us by and with a good deal of rain. At times I thought we might actually be washed down river, the currents ran so strongly.  Also the weather slowed down my furniture restoration program as I had to sand outside...too much dust to do it inside and dusting remains one of my least favourite activities. I can report however that my garden shed is almost set up and ready for some serious work, which is just as well as I've just started an art (contemporary) quilts class with Carolyn Sullivan at the NSW Embroiders' Guild. It runs for 8 sessions over the year AND we have homework....groan!  More to follow on that topic as my head is spinning with ideas but unfortunately nothing much is being committed in the way of fabric & thread.  Always excuses

Sophie Milenovich (Find on Amazon)

I am busy reading an interesting book however, called "Kimonos" by Sophie Milenovich. (As you do when you are a. not working on a Japanese patchwork theme and b. avoiding homework!). I particularly liked her summary because for me it led to an ah ha! moment. It speaks to me on various levels about travel, textiles and finding your own place in the creative process. Sophie's words, in part, are:

"My goal at the start was not so much to acquire encyclopaedic knowledge of the place as to be nourished by it. I looked with my own eyes. To go after objectivity would have been futile, so I sought above all to be touched by the experience. Japan gave me deep nourishment. It also upset and unbalanced me from time to time. But such difficulties have their own importance in any creative work." 

This is the way I like to travel. To be a quiet observer and be nourished by experiencing different world views. I relish being part of it, letting it all wash over me, breathing it in. But as an impassioned and empathetic observer not as an agent of change.  Something to think about for my next travelogue..perhaps to Nepal, where it is said that "every breath's a prayer".

Vung Tau or Sink!

Vung Tau, 2007

Vung Tau, meaning Bay of Boats, was to be our most important visit. From here we would be able to see, up close and personal, various battle and base sites that were important Australian contributions to the Vietnam War. 

But first, we had to get there! We strolled from our hotel in Saigon along the waterfront to the hydrofoil jetty for an 8am departure. Could that oddly shaped, rather neglected contraption possibly be our hydrofoil?  Yes, I'm afraid so....  (Coming from Sydney, you do have different expectations).  Despite my reservations, we really did glide down the river quite nicely and had many, many chances to almost graze our whiskers on somewhat larger rusting hulks; those that spend their lives busily plying oceans and rivers, although I'm not sure how they manage to stay afloat.

Map of Locations

On arrival to the port town of Vung Tau, we were met by our buses. They'd taken the long and winding road whilst we were carried downstream, along with large amounts of sediment (I wonder how much of that is rust?), in the Song Sai Gon currents. 

We were quickly transferred to our hotel, The Palace, conveniently central.  The landscape is quite different here with steep surrounding hills and a strong fishing focus; not too settled and very well cared for. Vung Tau, once a French resort town in colonial times, became a venue for local leave, or R&C, during the Vietnam War.

So with only a little time to recover from green gills and armed with our own stash of loo paper, we began, with varying emotions, to retrace those locations and events special to Australia's involvement 1962 to 1972.

Assembling the Task Force (1962-1972)

Nui Dat, 3 Cav Location

Nui Dat was home to the Australian Task Force Base. At one time it housed some 5000 troops. The site took in quite a large area (12k perimeter) and we visited a number of locations including Luscombe Field, took in views over the area from SAS Hill, inspected an Artillery command post bunker in the rubber trees and saw areas where specific groups, including 3 Cav were housed. Some in our group brought along old photos which helped us to visually reconstruct what the base had looked like during those years. Now it is a quiet home to Vietnamese army, rubber plantations, and small villages.

Vung Tau Port and Airforce Base. Very little infrastructure remains of the RAAF Airforce base on Quoc Lo Sia. Also due to government restrictions, we were unable to take photographs of the area.  Nearby is the infamous Alaska Barge Company, allegedly a front for the CIA at the time, and other buildings used as port facilities.

View over the ALSG

1ALSG (Australian Logistic Support Group) was established in May 1966.  The support base covered a huge area near the coast in Vung Tau. It is now hard to visualise because of developments, however an imposing VC Memorial provides a vantage point of the area and views out to the coast. 

Long Tan (18 August 1966)

Long Tan is remembered for a famous battle that took place in 1966. A large white cross in a rubber plantation marks the site where D Company, 6RAR, fought.  We attended a Commemorative Service (41st) with many others including the Australian Ambassador and Defence Attaché. 

Long Tan Veterans

Needless to say, I felt a bit guilty at knowing so little about what actually happened at the time. Like many, I mostly heard about the protests and the politics. However our guide, Garry, gave us an excellent overview of battle specifics, which was made all the more poignant by having details added by one of our group, a veteran of the battle itself. August 18th is also celebrated as Vietnam Veterans' Day; an opportunity to commemorate nationally those who served and died in Vietnam.    
 
Tet Offensive (29 January 1968)

Ba Ria Water Tower

In 1968, the Communists launched surprise attacks that coincided with Tet (Vietnamese New Year) celebrations on almost every major city or town, including military bases, in South Vietnam. The attacks were also undertaken during a time of agreed ceasefire. The town of Ba Ria, the provincial capital of then named Phuoc Tuy, saw some major skirmishes. A highlight was the story of the lone VC sniper on the water tower in the centre of town. 

Our stopover on the main road near the tower inadvertently caused minor traffic chaos, so we scarpered and left it all to the local authorities to sort out - as you do!

Dat Do VC Graves

Hoa Long township had become a resettlement area for displaced and therefore unfriendly villagers from Long Phuoc and Long Tan. It was the site of much sniper fire and many ambushes for the Aussies, particularly during 8-9 Feb 1968 post Tet. It's apparently as famous for its dances (taken in much the same vein as left handed screwdrivers)! 

Out of Dat Do village is a Warrior Graveyard worth visiting and fairly typical of memorial sites across the country. We seemed to be at the mercy of the site manager due to a change in itinerary, however we were eventually allowed in.    

Other

Taking Tea in the Long Hais

Long Hai Hills. A notorious VC enclave (an extensive bunker system) set in rugged mountains, the Long Hais were heavily mined. Unfortunately, it saw huge loss of life. The area was otherwise known as the Minh Dam Secret Zone. 

We struggled up a hill, HHHarrier style, to a Cao Dai complex with a nice view from their prayer point. Having suffered through a recent typhoon, their temple was little more than a rudimentary construction of salvaged materials. Still, we were kindly invited to tea and our greatest challenge for the day became managing the shoe "on/off" thing.

Near the Horseshoe

FSB Horseshoe on Route 23. Said to be an extinct volcano, once heavily fortified is now quarried, so we were only able to see it from a distance.

Long Phuoc Tunnels. Restored and very touristy remains of tunnels used by the VC; they have caches for food, weapons and even hospitals. 

Battle of Binh Ba (6 June 1969)
Another famous battle was fought at Binh Ba village. It is considered one of Australia's most successful actions. 

A little R&C
The Flags.  Named for the flags of allied nations that were assembled in the square, "The Flags" was once a popular meeting spot for diggers visiting Vung Tau. Situated close to Front Beach (Bai Truoc), it is now the site for some heavy duty tourist bothering.  

Back Beach

Back Beach & Peter Badcoe Club. The area to the east of Vung Tau was known as Back Beach and site of the famous Peter Badcoe Club. This area is personally famous for a helicopter rescue of a certain person from a sinking sailing dingy out in strong bay currents. 
The Grand Hotel. Somewhat of an icon of the war years, this hotel was the "officers' club". I'm sure the walls could tell many an eyebrow-raising story. Instead, we were returned to more refined and cultured times as a troupe of classical musicians, all in costume and playing traditional instruments, serenaded us.  

Ned Kelly Bar. An Aussie favourite, with very attentive bar girls and a chance to relive old memories. We managed to recognise a few names on the "wall of signatures" inside the restaurant  After taking in the atmosphere, we managed a delicious seafood dinner over at the Blue Ocean Restaurant, on the nearby main wharf. 

Artillery Command Post

With the weather changing and some choppy seas pounding the esplanade, we were all somewhat relieved to be taking the bus back to Saigon and on to the end of the first part of our tour.

Some of the many informative resources I came across were:

•  Vietnam Veteran's Association; 
• A personal history  by Ern Marshall, which is extremely detailed; 
• Digger History also has some great photos from the period & importantly, maps; and
• Gary McKay's book "Australia's Battlefields in Viet Nam: A traveller's guide".

War Remnants

Tank of Destiny

These are some of the many "war" sites we took in on our battlefield tour. They are a mix of remnants from French conflicts (mostly in the north) and the American war (central & south) . Across the country we saw a number of huge war cemeteries. It seems essential to erect monuments, almost "Russian" in design, to commemorate fallen comrades and provide impressive, if not somewhat austere, community buildings in every town and village. So in "itinerary" order (not including Vung Tau yet) we prepared to learn more about the conflict.

HO CHI MINH CITY:

Reunification Palace

Now known as the Reunification Palace and formerly the Presidential Palace, this rather austere building set in park-like grounds, is a museum dedicated to recording the demise of the South Vietnamese government.

The basement, from where operations were controlled and briefings given, is a maze of airless rooms through which tourists, in large groups, are constantly on the move. Above are reception rooms, a residential area including a Catholic chapel, a library and theatre. A helipad sits on the roof incongruously beside a beautiful bonsai garden. 

The surrounding grounds are home to decommissioned Communist tanks, similar to those that crashed through the gates of the Palace in April 1975. I could also see one or two aircraft through the trees - these may be to recognise damages inflicted in 1975 from bombing by a renegade pilot.

The Quiet American (find on Amazon)

In the city centre, various hotels are settings for war remembrances. The Rex Hotel was used by American servicemen and journalists; the Continental was one of the settings for Graham Greene's novel "The Quiet American" (I'm still trying to read this);  the Caravelle housed journalists and photographers; and the beautiful People's Committee Building, once the Hotel de Ville dating from 1908, also housed servicemen during the war years. 

The War Remnants Museum is an eye-popping and rather disturbing display of photos and other memorabilia dedicated to recording the horrors inflicted during the war years. There are a number of other similar military museums to visit; essentially dedicated to the victors of the North at the expense of ignoring half a country.

Father Tam's Catholic Church

Cholon (HCM City's chinatown), specifically Cham Tam Church (Saint Francis Xavier) was the site from where President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother were captured and shortly afterwards executed in a 1963 coup.

Further out are the Cu Chi Tunnels, an extensive network of tunnels which were build during the French (1940's) and Vietnam conflicts by VC. There are some 250km of tunnels, in some places three levels deep making an extensive underground village. They speak heaps about dogged determination and power of the mind.

DANANG:

View from Marble Mountains, Danang

Danang, a fishing village seized by the French in 1859, was soon to become the main port of central Vietnam. Later in 1965, the US first landed troops at Red Beach and Danang became the site of the first US consulate in Vietnam.  Soon after, during a period that has locally been described as "the 70's unpleasantness", Danang became the site of a large base for the US Airforce and nearby China Beach a rest and respite area for servicemen. 

To the south, five large Marble Mountains, also of significant cultural interest, provide a excellent view over Danang and the South China Seas. The mountains and caverns were occupied by VC and provided a perfect vantage point to check over US military activities.

HAI VAN PASS:

We were fortunate enough to take the long and winding road over the Hai Van Pass, or Pass of the Ocean Clouds, on a clear day. It was indeed like climbing the back of a dragon!! The views were spectacular from this natural barrier and strategically significant vantage point. 

The summit and pass are marked by a remarkable construction which boasts a first level from centuries past with a gate wide enough for an elephant to pass. Border patrol necessary even then!  Surrounding pillboxes and gun placements were added in more recent years by French and Americans.

HUE:

Hue is the former imperial city although it was badly damaged during the Tet Offensive in 1968. If you can, read Gavin Young's account of his time as a war journalist in Hue during that period in World's Apart. (Try the Book Depository for it). 

The Thien Mu Pagoda houses an important war and religious artifact; the car used by Buddhist monk, Thich Quang Duc.








DMZ:

DMZ

The bridge at the DMZ (demilitarized zone) is over the Ben Hai River. The road north of Hue had been dubbed the "road without joy" by the French who fought fierce battles against the Vietnamese along it. 

We continued to be amazed by the large, overpowering sculptures that seem to mark every important venue or cemetery.   

HANOI:

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

We were unable to take our visits to a grey and forbidding Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and his modest House due to a delayed flight from Hue which never took off!  So, we drove - a long but rewarding day in a bus!!  These sites were closed when we came by but at least we were able to stand, almost alone in the rain, in Ba Dinh Square where Ho read the Declaration of Independence on 2nd September 1945. 

Nearby is the Military History Museum which houses a collection of uniforms, maps, photos and other memorabilia documenting Vietnam's battles for independence and reunification. An imposing, crumpled B52 bomber stands in the grounds, resembling a modern sculpture  Its meaning is not lost on us.

Inside a Prison Cell

Many prisoners-of-war were incarcerated in Hao Lo Prison or Hanoi Hilton,  Before 1954 it was used by the French to imprison, torture and guillotine thousands of revolutionaries and later by the Vietnamese to secure political detainees and prisoners-of-war, whose fate was probably not much better that those under French governance. Despite modifications in 1994, I'm sure many ghosts remain in those cells to haunt us. It is indeed, a grim and very sobering reminder of the cruelties of war.