Back in the Saddle

Now where did that old saying come from?  Anyway, I don't really want to know as we're back into those renovations again after an all too brief interlude in the Caribbean.  Yes, it was nice.  Yes, it took our minds off flooring, paint samples and my furniture graveyard (those bits and pieces you collect over the years to restore...).  It's a bit like those UFO quilts really.  Yes, my garden shed is up and running, with potential to be a working studio, one day.  And no, quilt finishing fairies do not exist, especially not in your garden shed! 

I certainly needed this little read (Art & fear) after my most recent course.  My personal outcomes were 1. failure to complete set homework; 2. inability to generate many fresh ideas and 3. a general lack of, well, most everything really.  Where to from here?  I'll let you know when I've digested the book - figuratively speaking, of course! 
Roll on 2009.....

Autumn & Kimonos

There is a delicious chill in the air. A sure sign that Autumn is on its way. Somehow Summer passed us by and with a good deal of rain. At times I thought we might actually be washed down river, the currents ran so strongly.  Also the weather slowed down my furniture restoration program as I had to sand outside...too much dust to do it inside and dusting remains one of my least favourite activities. I can report however that my garden shed is almost set up and ready for some serious work, which is just as well as I've just started an art (contemporary) quilts class with Carolyn Sullivan at the NSW Embroiders' Guild. It runs for 8 sessions over the year AND we have homework....groan!  More to follow on that topic as my head is spinning with ideas but unfortunately nothing much is being committed in the way of fabric & thread.  Always excuses

Sophie Milenovich (Find on Amazon)

I am busy reading an interesting book however, called "Kimonos" by Sophie Milenovich. (As you do when you are a. not working on a Japanese patchwork theme and b. avoiding homework!). I particularly liked her summary because for me it led to an ah ha! moment. It speaks to me on various levels about travel, textiles and finding your own place in the creative process. Sophie's words, in part, are:

"My goal at the start was not so much to acquire encyclopaedic knowledge of the place as to be nourished by it. I looked with my own eyes. To go after objectivity would have been futile, so I sought above all to be touched by the experience. Japan gave me deep nourishment. It also upset and unbalanced me from time to time. But such difficulties have their own importance in any creative work." 

This is the way I like to travel. To be a quiet observer and be nourished by experiencing different world views. I relish being part of it, letting it all wash over me, breathing it in. But as an impassioned and empathetic observer not as an agent of change.  Something to think about for my next travelogue..perhaps to Nepal, where it is said that "every breath's a prayer".

Five Elements of a Farewell

As a conclusion to our Vietnam adventure, I've organised a few favourite photos loosely around the five elements cosmology concept just for fun.

Wood:

Wood makes me think of "Natural Fibres". The ubiquitous "non la" or conical hats woven from rattan, take on a new dimension in Hue. Each hat has a poem or painting inserted into the hat and it is mysteriously revealed when held up to the light. It is said that the poems reveal the temperament of the woman who wears it.

Also, a beautiful silk ao dai is quintessentially Vietnamese. It is both classic and exotic in one. And it looks so good, especially in silk, a fabric that goes back to Vietnam's legendary times!

Roadside stalls sell face masks, some in trendy colours, and rather amusingly, long (evening) gloves. These items I discovered, are worn to keep harsh sun off fashion conscious women, who prefer lighter skin (unlike we Aussies who bake ourselves on sandy beaches in order to achieve a healthy glow!) 

Last but not least is the wonderful hemp and indigo used with great skill by Hmong peoples. Fabrics imbued with magic!

Fire:

Chinese Duck & Baguettes

Always willing to explore local cooking, so fire for "Foods". Pho is a noodle soup served in a myriad of ways.  We tried pho in an amazing restaurant in Saigon that was filled with dark timber - rich painted panels, heavily carved furniture and mysterious interior decorations.  Broth was simmering in huge fiery pots near the restaurant door with additives chopped ready for each order.  We enjoyed local beer; Tiger was our favourite refreshment and wines, particularly French, were readily available.  Snake wine was an interesting delight available around the Mekong.  Said to have special properties; I think I'll stick to oysters, thanks! 

Of course, the French influence is evident!  Roadside stalls selling baguettes were everywhere and I even found some excellent lemon tarts in Hue.  

Local favourites for the pantry include nuoc mam (fish sauce), edible rice paper to wrap parcels of meats and vegies, and every imaginable seafood. Our favourite meal was a banquet of home cooked dishes served to us at Kim Bong Village on Cham Island, near Hoi An. Entertainment was provided by the owner's dog and friendly pet monkey.   

Earth: 

It doesn't take a lot of imagination to see earth as "Pottery". Bat Trang pottery village, out from Hanoi, still produces high-fired stoneware. Items are built from locally available white clay and decorated in a traditional blue and white glaze. Further south, a low-fired terracotta can be found. Pale green or honey coloured celadon and crackle glazes are common. Had we not been near the end of our trip (and too close to luggage limits, oops!!), I might have considered tucking a few little pieces into my bags....

Metal:

To me, metal could mean "Strong Resolve", so my first thoughts on this topic were of that trusty steed, the motorbike. Locals use motorbike taxis, hawkers pursue you feverishly and amazing goods, including large, live animals, are transported to and from markets on them. One small bike seems to easily accommodate a whole family - at least 4 or 5. Given the somewhat "free & easy" approach to driving in Vietnam, especially by bus and truck drivers, we decided that being easyriders was not for us and gave any near-death experiences a wide berth! 

On the topic of strong resolve, Vietnam has a fascinating mix of religious conviction. Mostly Buddhist, culturally there is an exciting fusion of other faiths including Cao Daism, Catholicism, Hinduism, Confucianism and others such as Ancestor worship. Religious tolerance has not always been this way in Vietnam and there is a history of restrictions and persecutions going back over many centuries. We though, had the luxury of being treated as guests in pagodas, temples and churches, especially in the small Cao Dai temple in the Long Hais.

Water:

Water is part of the magic of Vietnam; it is a country noted for its "Rivers and Oceans". Water conjures up images of water puppets; mesmerizing performances with accompanying traditional music and song. Puppeteers stand waist deep in water, manipulating painted wooden puppets to tell stories of long ago.

Rice, a food staple, is grown in flooded paddy fields that stretch along the coast. Dotted through the fields were grave sites, which enable ancestors to participate in everyday activities. Water buffalo too, grazed in the fields waiting for plowing days. Children lazed on their backs; watching the herd, keeping it safe. That was until we stopped along the road, causing huge excitement and interest!

We were amazed to see coracles still in use in Vung Tau. I can only imagine how difficult they must be to maneuver in those choppy waters out in the Bay. What I don't seem to have is a picture of a woman who was rowing with her feet! I should try that one day - out on the river. I'd be sure to end up washed out to sea or going round in circles for hours.


We met some interesting locals (Is this Ren & Stimpy?)

Thus concludes a bit of an epic tale....(rather more than the 6 posts I initially limited myself to!).  However, we had fun, made some new discoveries, found some old friends and came home with a bag or two of textile treasures. Not to mention all those photos!  All the things that make travel fun. 

In the words of Alain de Botton (I think), a fulfilled traveller is about attitude, not where you've been or what you've done....  Makes perfect sense to me!
 

Enjoying Vietnam with Fellow Travellers in 2007

Flower Hands

Yao Woman

TEXTILE TRADITIONS:

Although not having the opportunity to travel into hill tribe areas, I did want to explore (virtually!) Vietnam's textile traditions, in particular those of various hill tribes.  Among the ethnic minorities, there is a strong and flourishing tradition of textile techniques.  I had read about hoa tay, which means "flower hand" and it aptly describes the creative work, artistic skill and beauty that comes from the hands of these artisans.

Collectively called Montagnards by the French and Moi (meaning "savages" in pre-colonial times), the ethnic minorities produce textiles and crafts that are incredibly rich and clearly demonstrate a high level of technical skill. Textiles are heavily imbued with meaning - for example, the Hmong use indigo to ward off evil spirits. Clothing is means of marking ethnic identity and textile production has ensured precious traditions and skills survive for future generations.

Northern Hill Tribes:
Textile production/decoration by Northern Hill tribes is largely undertaken among the Hmong-Dao and Tay-Tai ethnic groups.  Museums in Hanoi worth visiting for their textile and costume collections are the Ethnology Museum, Vietnam Women's Museum and the Museum of Arts.  An interesting site to explore is tribaltextiles and another by Pamela Cross, who has photo documented her research into ethnic textiles.

Black H'mong

Hmong (or Miao) are renown for their use of indigo.  Black Hmong make a distinctive blue and white batiked cloth from hemp or cotton, which is grown and prepared locally.  Geometric patterns are drawn onto the cloth with "china" pens dipped in beeswax.  This cloth is then submerged in indigo vats. White (or Flower) Hmong also grow "linen" and weave it into white skirts.  Hmong are also renown decorative embroiderers, although they use it sparingly by comparison to other ethnic groups.  They have a preference for chain stitch and reverse applique.  Hmong can be found in Cat Cat village, within walking distance of Sapa.  To the Hmong, textile decoration is more than superficial attractiveness! fibre2fabric describes the meaning behind Hmong clothing and textiles (the research was done in Laos).

Red Dao (or Zhao, Mien, Yao) stitch a dense cross stitch, which is so well executed it is impossible to tell the right side from the wrong.  The Dao prefer colourful weavings and have a preference for tassels and fringing.   Styles differ greatly from tribe to tribe. Red Dao live in Ta Phin village.

Tai (or Thai) are considered master weavers and skilled embroiderers.  Aside from geometric patterns they also embroider flowers, birds, animals and dragons.  Practitioners use traditional methods and weave on ancient looms.  Fibres are dyed using natural vegetable dyes.  Various techniques used include cross stitch, surface embroidery, reverse applique and applique.  White Tai live in Ban Lac and Mai Chau village, south-west of Hanoi. 

Central Highlands:

The Central Highlands are in part, peopled by Malayo-Polynesian and Mon Khmer ethnic groups.  These ethnic minorities have a legacy of skilled sericulture (silk farming) and weaving.  Cham weavers have in recent years rediscovered ancient patterns although they dress simply in white cotton sarongs.  The Chil (K'ho tribe, Lang Ga village) are also skilled weavers and use simple geometric patterns from their daily lives eg, stripes (rice paddy), diamonds (tiger's eye).  Maa dye cotton cloth using vegetables and bark.  The Co Tu are adept at cotton weaving using beads.  Jarai decorate their sarongs and loincloths with woven bands of geometric patterning using a  supplementary weft technique.  

Mekong Delta:

Xinh Mun_Mon Khmer

In the Mekong Delta, Tan Chau village is famous for its silk industry, particularly satins woven from natural dyes. Needless to say, production is now on power-looms. At the base of Nui Sam mountain is the Temple of Lady Chua Xu (the green stone statue is said to date from the 6th century) where bales of cloth are left by devotees. 

In a nearby area, Khmer silk weavers from Sray Skoth village produce colourful sarongs from designs made on weft yarns before weaving (ikat). They weave traditional designs on traditional looms and can use up to 3 layers of coloured silk fibres, resulting in a lustrous plain jacquards or colourful ikats.

TEXTILE TECHNIQUES:

Van Phuc Silk Shop

Silk: Van Phuc village (45 mins out of Hanoi) is considered to be the cradle of silk weaving in Vietnam with a history of production that can be traced back thousands of years.  Its specialty is brocade (Ha Dong silk) and the making and selling of quilts a colourful feature.  

Close by is Co Do where a temple has been built to honour a Princess from the first Dynasty, said to be the first Vietnamese silk maker.  Further into the Red River delta, Nam Cao village has a history of weaving tussore silk dating back some 400 years.

Hemp grows wild in the northern hills. It is processed and spun before being woven on simple looms in traditional widths of 30cm to lengths of 8 to 10 metres.

Tribal weaving is generally completed on backstrap (body tension) and simple frame looms.  Silks are generally mass produced on power looms, although essentially remain a cottage industry.

Wax resist or batik: Melted bees wax is applied on to hemp or cotton with a ladao knife (chinese knife).  The design is then immersed in a vat of cooled indigo. This process is repeated until the desired depth of colour is achieved - as many as 30 immersions.

Hand Spinning

Dyeing: Indigo dyed cotton is the predominant textile used by hill tribes.  Locally grown and processed, indigo is culturally significant to Hmong.  It is a rare treat to find natural indigo in use as it has largely been replaced by its chemical counterpart.  Valarie Kirk provides information on preparation and dyeing of indigo. Other vegetable dyes, including roots, leaves, bark and mud can be used. Generally, natural dyes are duller than vivid colours produced from chemical dyes.

It is sad at any time to see traditional embroidered textiles, symbols of ethnic culture, cut up and remade into tourist goods.  However, a number of organisations are running programs aimed at conserving Vietnam's rich textile heritage and should be applauded for acknowledging flower hands and supporting quality workmanship.  These programs keep alive an important textile heritage, foster respect for the artisans and allow visitors to share in and support skilled hand work.   

It was an quite an effort to work out ethnic minority specifics given variations on spelling and not a lot of helpful resource material: much of it too generic to be useful. So, if you are interested in reading more about the Vietnamese ethnic minorities, the Vets with a Mission site is well worth a browse. Photos of the Viet tribes comes from Vietnam Tourism or VietNamNet. Referral to various sites is only in the interests of their textile content. It is not my intention to support commerce, political or religious ideologies or any other purpose. 

Indigo Blues!

Luscious Stitches

I knew this was not a textile trip...it had been chosen by Mr Salt and he doesn't often get the chance to make these sorts of big decisions (despite being major shareholding partner!).  Naturally enough, I was devastated when Sapa was not on the itinerary, however I went armed with a sense of humour and a huge list of things to find and see.  All in good hope! 

So, this is my list and a brief, less than technical account of what I had actually seen:

1. Weaving - ikats, linens (hemp), silk brocades
2. Embroidery - cross stitch, chinese double-sided, applique
3. Dyeing - indigo; natural (vegetable) dyes
4. Decorations - buttons, silver ornaments, seeds etc

Hemp & Indigo

Saigon:  Despite warnings about the traffic mayhem (do try Cairo!) and only a little time to browse, I managed to find some interesting bits and bobs.  Mind you, I also discovered there are varying levels of fakery - good fakes (reproductions); acceptable fakes (bargain prices) and very poor quality (self-destruct on the way home!).  I should add an aside here, that from a cultural perspective, being able to reproduce a master's work is considered the highest of achievements.  That is not to say that there aren't others pushing the limits of tradition; individual expression is growing in acceptability.  So between watching for quality and bargaining, you really need to keep your wits about you.

Saigon Tax Trade Centre is the easy tourist's mecca.  Lots of enticing dust collectors abound at fixed price, which makes life easy when you've got a long list and not much time.  I found a very pretty ao dai in brocade silk.

Ben Thanh Market was a buzz of humanity and not recommended for anyone slightly claustrophobic but it did not have the textiles that I was looking for.  Again, lots of everything imaginable, including pigs ears, and silk ready-mades.

The appropriately named Lucky Plaza, on Dong Koi Street, yielded an interesting SAPA full of fashions by designer Vo Pham Vu Dong.  She uses hill tribe textiles in her designs and accessorises with ethnic crafts. The shop was well stocked.  At last I was getting somewhere! 

Found Twice, Closed Twice

One shop that proved quite elusive was Vietnam Quilts.  Part of the larger community organisation of Vietnam Plus, Vietnam Quilts provides employment and income for women.  Following a referral from a friend and an article she found in DUQ (an Aussie quilting mag), I eventually found it - only a block from our hotel - at 68 Ngo Duc Ke!  However I managed to time my visits when it was either closed or closing, as you do!  They did have a lovely selection of quilts; all beautifully made in a variety of patterns including traditional designs. They also have a shop in Hanoi. 

Hoi An:  Known for its tailoring,  Hoi An has a connection with silk trading that goes back over many centuries. Whilst we were on our city walk, I had heard the click-clack of looms. I couldn't wait to break ranks to return to the shop! 

Frames in the Factory

At 41 Le Loi (both location & shop name), girls were bent over frames busily sewing exquisite embroideries, some double-sided technical masterpieces of classical patterns.  Upstairs was the sewing room for the Silkworm Tailors who did a brisk trade with our group.  Having had time in India and Nepal, I was not in need of tailoring services but later wished I had! 

At the rear of the shop was the floor loom, set up for weaving silk lengths, now really for tourist edification.  It would not have been uncommon in years gone by however, for many looms to be set up to produce dazzling silks so attractive to foreign merchants. 

Weaving on Looms

The Thang Loi handcrafts factory, on the outskirts of Hoi An, has also been recommended as having a large offering of beautiful silks and an area set aside to demonstrate traditional silk weaving on ancient looms.

One of Hoi An's specialties is silk lanterns.  At night the old town is resplendent with coloured lanterns of all shapes and sizes, adding a fairy tale touch to an already intriguing city.  They are made of silk stretched over bamboo frames and come in a variety traditional shapes; each shop seeming to have its own specialty.

In Vietnam, colour is its own special reward

On referral from another friend, and perhaps my best find, was Reaching Out (Hoa Nhap) Handicrafts at 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc.  This Fair Trade gift shop sells items made by crafts people with disabilities. The items were well made, priced reasonably and all sold with a smile!  

I found some nice items made from ethnic embroideries and indigo dyeing and purchased a large, pieced quilt top. The top had more than enough textile technique examples to satisfy even me! I also found a perfect solution to wanting some fat quarters of silk brocades....you want what??  The ladies had made a beautiful wall hanging, complete with bamboo hanger, from a colourful selection of brocades. Best of all, it was already made up - one less UFO for me!  I dashed back a second time to pick up some little gifts for family & friends - I'm glad I did, I didn't quite make it to the shopping mecca of Hanoi, the Old Quarter.

Hanoi:  That of course is not quite true (sigh). I did make it, but with my feet firmly planted in a cyclo, much to the Old Salt's relief. Even my photos were blurred...  Personally, I think he'd paid extra for speed and shop dodging.  Even on a cyclo it took over an hour to weave in and out of the old streets; all 36 of them named after the artisan guilds that once existed over 600 years ago. Hang Gai (hemp) is now the place to go for silks, clothing and embroideries. I spotted a shop with tribal handiwork but didn't make it back due to our pressing schedule and need for a recuperative cruise away from it all, at Ha Long.

Old Quarter Hanoi

Craft Link, a not-for-profit organisation has a shop on Van Mieu (#43) selling ethnic minority craft. The organisation is much more than just a retail outlet and works with others to preserve and document traditional handcrafts.

One area of interest for its fanciful tale (and lack of quilt supply shops), is Ho Truc Bach or White Silk Lake. Once the site of Lord Trinh Giang's (1729-1740) summer palace, it is said to have later housed (in confinement) his wayward concubines. Their punishment was to weave lengths of white silk for his princesses. This silk was famed for its beauty.

Embroidery & Cross Stitching

Silk Tunic & Dragons with Personality

Stash Busters:  I came away with having satisfied my list fairly well, however I seem to have collected rather too many handbags and purses and not enough (well, none at all really!) pieces for patchwork.  Deconstruction seems to be one of the latest fads, so I may have to follow suit; perhaps a 3D handbag quilt?

Charming Traces

Classic (in the French Colonial style) & Modern

Our accommodation in Hue, the Saigon Morin Hotel, was a wonderful example of colonial architecture from the era of French colonisation (1858-1956). The style itself is charming and admirably suited to a tropical lifestyle (read: no concrete boxes with installed aircon). 

The Morin Hotel had been built in 1901 by businessman, Mr Morin and photographs of guests from this era grace the walls. It has been updated since then (aircon etc) but still retains its period charm. For those interested, a detailed history can be found on the hotel's informative web site.

In 1858, Danang was captured by the French, along with Saigon (1861). The southern part of Vietnam was annexed as a French colony. Catholicism & Westernisation that Minh Mang had so opposed had finally infiltrated. Nguyen Anh's rise to power and rise of the Nguyen dynasty (1792-1883) had rested upon French support.

Elegant Notre Dame Cathedral

And there was even something of an earlier history; French and Chinese power struggles and intrigue had plagued the court since the early 1770's. The French, on occupation, renamed their area, Coochin China. Later, they moved into the north (renaming it Tonkin) and central areas (renamed Annam).

One positive outcome of the occupation is an abundance of colonial architecture ranging from grand cathedrals to humble shop houses. Earlier examples of this style can be found in Saigon. We visited Notre Dame Cathedral (1883), Saigon's largest church; the fabulous almost art deco Post Office (Buu Dien); and the white facade of the Opera House (1899) that just screams culture! Our Hotel, the Grand on Dong Khoi Street, also dates from this era. Dong Khoi, a street renown for shopping, used to be known as Rue Catinat before 1954. (Read "The Quiet American" to be better acquainted with Rue Catinat.) The Grand Hotel has been operating since 1930's and it seems that the French have never left!

Bach Dinh (1909)

Nearby Vung Tau was known as Cape Saint Jacques during the French occupation. It provided a stunning sea-side resort for Saigon residents. Villas from the period are plentiful and thankfully many are restored or about to be. Perhaps the most interesting however, was the elegant Bach Dinh or White Villa (1909). Set in beautiful gardens up high on the Nui Lon hillside, the White Villa was built by French Governor-General Paul Doumer as his summer residence. By contrast, it was later said to be used to fire the first shots in anger against the French (1820). The villa has also seen life as a palace, a place of "refuge" for various kings and presidents, and finally its latest reincarnation as a museum.

It is a showcase of elegant colonial design and has fabulous views over the coastline and out to sea. I loved the style - open air and relaxed. I loved the detail - the shutters, the colours, the tiles and the balustrading.  I really loved the tiles - so French!  

The Villa is also the repository for a priceless collection of blue and white Ching Dynasty ceramics (mmm, my favourite colours) found in a shipwreck off the coast in 1990.

In the grounds, large muzzle-loading canons rest side-by-side with an elegant outdoor dance patio, resplendent with Italianate statues. 

On the day we visited, a crew were busy filming a music video...a romantic little ditty. Pity about the noisy Aussies in the background taking the micky (that means offering helpful advice.)  In this case to newly weds....  Helpful?  Maybe not!

Centres of Excellence

Hoi An  Silk Lanterns

Hoi An, set on the pretty Thu Bon River, is a modern day marvel. It dates from 15th to 19th centuries and at the time was an established and very busy trading port. That was until the river silted up. Now it is the site for modern day traders servicing hoards of tourists...  Originally a sea port of the Champa kingdom (Dai Chien), it was secured by the Tran dynasty (15th century), then later became known as Faifo. 1516 saw Portuguese traders arrive and others, keen to secure their share in prosperous trading routes, soon followed. The Portuguese had already established themselves in Malacca (Malaysia) and were keen to assert their domination in this area. Hoi An grew to become one of the most important trading links in South East Asia and shows a fascinating mix of all the cultures that passed through it.

Japanese Bridge (1593)

The old quarter, now a tourist mecca, has fortunately been rescued by a UNESCO preservation order, and although crowded it still has a quaint charm and shows signs of a real life going on in spite of it all. We started our walk-about from Le Loi Street the first street to be built, and with strict instructions not to stray, we moved on to see the Cantonese Assembly Hall (Hoi Quan Quang Dong, 1653) - all the while trying to resist shops full of lovely silk lanterns, blue pottery and luscious snacks!  

Old House of Tan Ky

Across the road is a small museum of Sa Huynh relics. The Sa Huynh (1000BC - 200AD), a jar burials culture, are considered to have predated the Chams and existed about the same time as the Dong Son. The Japanese Covered Bridge, which dates from 1593, was built to provide access across a narrow river channel. It's a curved timber structure with a meticulously tiled roof, colourfully painted and has a small temple (Chua Cau) built to one side. Our final inspection was the old house of Tan Ky, in the style of mercantile homes that dates from the 18th century.

Built around a tiny central courtyard, and terraced to include living quarters, the house extends windowless, from one street to another. I particularly loved the Chinese poetry hangings on the columns. The house reminded me of one I had seen in Malacca many years ago that had a huge "egg pot" bath centrally placed in the courtyard. During our stay, we quartered up at the Hoi An Hotel. Reminiscent of colonial influences, I half expected to look out my window and see a guard of soldiers lining the driveway.

Hue was a pleasant day's drive from Hoi An, with a lovely seafood lunch stop at the picturesque Lang Co. Those Chams certainly knew how to pick a spot to live, didn't they!  Hue is not on the coast but further up the Perfume River. It is also a World Heritage site (1993), so restoration and conservation work continues to rebuild a city that has quite a long and sometimes violent history.

Tower of the Source of Happiness

Hue had been part of the Champa kingdom until 1306 when the Tran dynasty extended its Dai Viet territories with a peaceful annexation of the (Hue) region through marriage. The siting of a citadel, Phu Xuan, in 1601 was undertaken by a feudal Nguyen noble, Nguyen Hoang, where it remained until its capture in 1775 by the rival Trinhs. West of this citadel and on the banks of the Perfume River, he had also reconstructed the Thien Mu Pagoda (Celestial Lady Pagoda).  The site also is home to the octagonal Tower of the Source of Happiness. Interestingly, it is made using bricks of Cham origin. The seven tiers of this tower represent a different reincarnation of Buddha. The temple is also home to a huge bronze bell cast in 1710. Its ring is said to be heard 16km away. Thien Mu is considered the religious heart of Buddhism and was the site of many protests during the 60's.

After many years, the Nguyens eventually gained the upper hand and in 1792, the first of the Nguyen Emperors (1802-1945), Gia Long, established a hold on Hue and commenced construction on Dai Noi, the Imperial Palace. It is made up of 3 walled enclosures ringed by moats and secured by high towers along the crenelations.  The first and outer-most enclosure accommodated the Imperial Ministries and now is home to nine Holy Cannons, cast on order of Gia Long.

Hue Imperial Palace

The second Imperial (Yellow) Enclosure has 4 gates and houses the palaces, temples and gardens. Watched by a foreboding Five Pheonix tower, we made our way through "Noon Gate" with its bullet riddled walls, reminders of violence encountered during the Tet Offensive in 1968, and over the Bridge of Golden Waters and carp-filled ponds. We walked in the footsteps of Emperors as we crossed the bridge to the throne room of the Nguyen kings, Thai Hoa Palace (1805). Behind the throne room, the Great Golden Gate allowed access to the Forbidden Purple City; reserved for use by the royal family only. Even sons were banished on puberty (Don't you just wish you could do that today?). Inside, the Royal Library survives, as do amazing dynastic urns, thanks to major restoration initiatives and surviving, detailed city plans. This citadel is particularly important as it is the home to the last imperial dynasty in Vietnam. Emperor Bao Di abdicated in 1945.


Our tour of Hue concluded with a visit to the Tomb of Minh Mang (1840). Of 13 Nyugen kings, only seven have a mausoleum and this one is considered one of the most impressive. Said to reflect each kings politics and personality, this one is Chinese in style (Confucian). 

Minh Mang Tomb Grounds

Set in a complex of beautiful gardens and lakes, the Sung An temple is visited annually by relatives who come to pay respects. The exact place of burial is unknown, a protective measure against usurping dynasties...or perhaps ghosts of Chams he finally "extinguished" in 1832!!

Antiquities and Dragons!

Dat Do Cemetery Dragon

It is indeed a sobering thought to be involved, even if only in such a fleeting way, with histories, traditions, cultures, artefacts and bold constructions that date back some 5000 years (and quite possibly even more!). In the line of time, French and Americans sorties are only recent and very, very short by comparison to a long history of Chinese rule, flexing boundaries and myriad migrations. This great mix however, makes the country what it is and has given the people incredible strength and resilience. Which somehow they need to cope with the modern day invasion - tourists!  Whilst I became obsessed with reading about Vietnam's ancient history, I really only want to set a rudimentary time-line to some interesting sites that we took in during our stay. For anyone interested in a more precise on-line account of Vietnam's history, wikipedia is a good starting point (and it has maps!). 

To set the scene, Vietnam's prehistory is a fascinating mix of legend and truths handed down over many generations and has many links with China. Shennong, a legendary ruler of China, is believed to be the father of Viets who were at the time, tribal agriculturalists living in the fertile Red River (Dong Song) area.

Cham Imperial Dragon

The Vietnamese believe they are descendants of the immortal (Yin) and the dragon (Yang). One of Shennong's descendants, Sung Lam, the Dragon Lord of Lac, is considered the first king of Vietnam. He married the beautiful princess Au Co. She was a descendant of the immortals from the High Mountains and together they produced 100 sons, giving rise to the Kingdom of Bach Viet with 100 principalities. Hung Vuong, their eldest son, was crowned King of Lac Viet in about 2879BC. He renamed the kingdom, Van Lang. It is believed to include much of today's north and central regions and its capital was located near present day Vinh. We quickly sped through Vinh as last light faded. We were on a mission to get to Hanoi - we'd already been in the bus 8 hours! - and as such, were totally oblivious to the ghosts of civilizations from so long ago.

Gorgeous Cham Ganesh

Whilst the Hung dynasty prospered, there is evidence of another established society that existed in an area near Thanh Hoa from 1000-1BC. We stopped there briefly for a meal break some 12 hours into our journey. The service was poor, the food cold and the chickens still had heads on (poor clucky). The Dong Son culture, is famous for its very fine bronze casting, particularly drums, which are still used by their Muong ancestors today, and its seafaring exploits. Obviously culinary skills, not!  

The Hung dynasty fell in 258BC to An Duong Vuong who renamed the kingdom, Au Lac and placed its capital at Co Loa (257BC), just north of Hanoi. Interestingly, Co Loa means old conch; perhaps a curious connection to an ancient past. Ramparts of that vast spiral citadel (so close to Hanoi) exist today.

Dragons, Temple Dogs & Bats...

Further south, the Champa Kingdom (192AD - 1832) was establishing and spreading roots. Originally believed to be Malayo-Polynesian settlers, they were later, in the course of their trading activities, influenced by Hinduism. They maintained a powerful coastal fleet for commerce along the spice route (supplying ivory & aloe!) and were renown for piracy. In the 4th century, they established their capital at Singhapura - the Lion City - near Danang and occupied a sizable area of current day central Vietnam. We visited the wonderful Cham Museum in Danang, which itself dates from 1915, to see sophisticated sculptures dating from 7-15th century. Nearby, we climbed (170 steps) up into the Marble Mountains. 

My Son Temple

These famous landmarks were once a site for Cham sacred rituals. I am not sure if the mountains were on the coast or in it at the time, but the area eventually silted up and became land-bound. My Son has ruins from a 4-13th century Cham religious sanctuary that are still in reasonable condition today. The site has temples, built of brick and 3 storeys high, dedicated to the worship of the usual Hindu pantheon including Shiva and Vishnu. The kingdom gradually crumbled, however as many attackers, including the famous Mongol forces of Kublai Khan (1283), driven by a desire for Champa's wealth and position in the sea trade routes, reduced its borders. As late as 1306, the Hai Van Pass formed the frontier (and a customs collection point even then!) between Vietnam and Champa.

View to the Hai Van Pass

Whilst the Chams were on the rise, the Mekong, River of 9 Dragons, was home to the Oc Eo civilization (1st - 5th century AD) that had settled in the Delta area. Now part of Vietnam, it was once Khmer country. The Oc Eo community established a major trading port with a well developed canal system for transportation and irrigation. There is evidence that they had extensive trading links with the Roman Empire, Persia, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and the ancient Chinese kingdom of Phu Nam (Funan). Unfortunately, there is little left to see with most of the artefacts under safe-keeping in museums. 
After gaining independence from the Chinese after an occupation lasting from 200BC to 938AD, the capital of the kingdom of Dai Viet became installed at Hoa Lu in 939 (100km south of Hanoi) by the successful Ngo dynasty leaders. It was probably midnight when we sped on by and most on our bus were either sleeping or dazed; some recovering from tummy problems!  However, it does bear thinking about how large the kingdoms were. It took us nearly 17 hours in a bus to get from Hue to Hanoi. How did they manage so long ago to cover so much territory?  This same road has probably been used for centuries and by countless peoples for all sorts of purposes from trading to warfare.

On the lookout for Golden Dragons

Hoa Lu remained as capital during a succession of dynasties until Ly Thai To arrived in Dai La, near present day Hanoi. He saw an enormous golden dragon rise from the lake and fly into the sky. Inspired by his vision, he moved the capital to Dai La in 1010 and renamed it Thang Long or "Ascending Dragon". The One Pillar Pagoda (1049), shaped like a lotus flower and constructed as an offering of thanks on the arrival of a son and heir, dates from this time, as does the Temple of Literature (1070). The latter acknowledging the teachings of Confucianism and the former, Buddhism, national religion of the time. Water puppetry also made its debut during the Ly Dynasty.
According to legend (in 1418 or so), hero Le Loi was given a magic sword by the divine Golden Tortoise that lived in Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Restored Sword). After ten years of fighting against Chinese invaders and finally succeeding, Le Loi returned the sword to the turtle. He founded the Le dynasty (1428-1776) and became Le Thai To. The Le Dynasty saw the absorption of the remaining regions of Champa in 1471. This dynasty was the first to produce a documented history.

Tortoise in Legend

Vung Tau or Sink!

Vung Tau, 2007

Vung Tau, meaning Bay of Boats, was to be our most important visit. From here we would be able to see, up close and personal, various battle and base sites that were important Australian contributions to the Vietnam War. 

But first, we had to get there! We strolled from our hotel in Saigon along the waterfront to the hydrofoil jetty for an 8am departure. Could that oddly shaped, rather neglected contraption possibly be our hydrofoil?  Yes, I'm afraid so....  (Coming from Sydney, you do have different expectations).  Despite my reservations, we really did glide down the river quite nicely and had many, many chances to almost graze our whiskers on somewhat larger rusting hulks; those that spend their lives busily plying oceans and rivers, although I'm not sure how they manage to stay afloat.

Map of Locations

On arrival to the port town of Vung Tau, we were met by our buses. They'd taken the long and winding road whilst we were carried downstream, along with large amounts of sediment (I wonder how much of that is rust?), in the Song Sai Gon currents. 

We were quickly transferred to our hotel, The Palace, conveniently central.  The landscape is quite different here with steep surrounding hills and a strong fishing focus; not too settled and very well cared for. Vung Tau, once a French resort town in colonial times, became a venue for local leave, or R&C, during the Vietnam War.

So with only a little time to recover from green gills and armed with our own stash of loo paper, we began, with varying emotions, to retrace those locations and events special to Australia's involvement 1962 to 1972.

Assembling the Task Force (1962-1972)

Nui Dat, 3 Cav Location

Nui Dat was home to the Australian Task Force Base. At one time it housed some 5000 troops. The site took in quite a large area (12k perimeter) and we visited a number of locations including Luscombe Field, took in views over the area from SAS Hill, inspected an Artillery command post bunker in the rubber trees and saw areas where specific groups, including 3 Cav were housed. Some in our group brought along old photos which helped us to visually reconstruct what the base had looked like during those years. Now it is a quiet home to Vietnamese army, rubber plantations, and small villages.

Vung Tau Port and Airforce Base. Very little infrastructure remains of the RAAF Airforce base on Quoc Lo Sia. Also due to government restrictions, we were unable to take photographs of the area.  Nearby is the infamous Alaska Barge Company, allegedly a front for the CIA at the time, and other buildings used as port facilities.

View over the ALSG

1ALSG (Australian Logistic Support Group) was established in May 1966.  The support base covered a huge area near the coast in Vung Tau. It is now hard to visualise because of developments, however an imposing VC Memorial provides a vantage point of the area and views out to the coast. 

Long Tan (18 August 1966)

Long Tan is remembered for a famous battle that took place in 1966. A large white cross in a rubber plantation marks the site where D Company, 6RAR, fought.  We attended a Commemorative Service (41st) with many others including the Australian Ambassador and Defence Attaché. 

Long Tan Veterans

Needless to say, I felt a bit guilty at knowing so little about what actually happened at the time. Like many, I mostly heard about the protests and the politics. However our guide, Garry, gave us an excellent overview of battle specifics, which was made all the more poignant by having details added by one of our group, a veteran of the battle itself. August 18th is also celebrated as Vietnam Veterans' Day; an opportunity to commemorate nationally those who served and died in Vietnam.    
 
Tet Offensive (29 January 1968)

Ba Ria Water Tower

In 1968, the Communists launched surprise attacks that coincided with Tet (Vietnamese New Year) celebrations on almost every major city or town, including military bases, in South Vietnam. The attacks were also undertaken during a time of agreed ceasefire. The town of Ba Ria, the provincial capital of then named Phuoc Tuy, saw some major skirmishes. A highlight was the story of the lone VC sniper on the water tower in the centre of town. 

Our stopover on the main road near the tower inadvertently caused minor traffic chaos, so we scarpered and left it all to the local authorities to sort out - as you do!

Dat Do VC Graves

Hoa Long township had become a resettlement area for displaced and therefore unfriendly villagers from Long Phuoc and Long Tan. It was the site of much sniper fire and many ambushes for the Aussies, particularly during 8-9 Feb 1968 post Tet. It's apparently as famous for its dances (taken in much the same vein as left handed screwdrivers)! 

Out of Dat Do village is a Warrior Graveyard worth visiting and fairly typical of memorial sites across the country. We seemed to be at the mercy of the site manager due to a change in itinerary, however we were eventually allowed in.    

Other

Taking Tea in the Long Hais

Long Hai Hills. A notorious VC enclave (an extensive bunker system) set in rugged mountains, the Long Hais were heavily mined. Unfortunately, it saw huge loss of life. The area was otherwise known as the Minh Dam Secret Zone. 

We struggled up a hill, HHHarrier style, to a Cao Dai complex with a nice view from their prayer point. Having suffered through a recent typhoon, their temple was little more than a rudimentary construction of salvaged materials. Still, we were kindly invited to tea and our greatest challenge for the day became managing the shoe "on/off" thing.

Near the Horseshoe

FSB Horseshoe on Route 23. Said to be an extinct volcano, once heavily fortified is now quarried, so we were only able to see it from a distance.

Long Phuoc Tunnels. Restored and very touristy remains of tunnels used by the VC; they have caches for food, weapons and even hospitals. 

Battle of Binh Ba (6 June 1969)
Another famous battle was fought at Binh Ba village. It is considered one of Australia's most successful actions. 

A little R&C
The Flags.  Named for the flags of allied nations that were assembled in the square, "The Flags" was once a popular meeting spot for diggers visiting Vung Tau. Situated close to Front Beach (Bai Truoc), it is now the site for some heavy duty tourist bothering.  

Back Beach

Back Beach & Peter Badcoe Club. The area to the east of Vung Tau was known as Back Beach and site of the famous Peter Badcoe Club. This area is personally famous for a helicopter rescue of a certain person from a sinking sailing dingy out in strong bay currents. 
The Grand Hotel. Somewhat of an icon of the war years, this hotel was the "officers' club". I'm sure the walls could tell many an eyebrow-raising story. Instead, we were returned to more refined and cultured times as a troupe of classical musicians, all in costume and playing traditional instruments, serenaded us.  

Ned Kelly Bar. An Aussie favourite, with very attentive bar girls and a chance to relive old memories. We managed to recognise a few names on the "wall of signatures" inside the restaurant  After taking in the atmosphere, we managed a delicious seafood dinner over at the Blue Ocean Restaurant, on the nearby main wharf. 

Artillery Command Post

With the weather changing and some choppy seas pounding the esplanade, we were all somewhat relieved to be taking the bus back to Saigon and on to the end of the first part of our tour.

Some of the many informative resources I came across were:

•  Vietnam Veteran's Association; 
• A personal history  by Ern Marshall, which is extremely detailed; 
• Digger History also has some great photos from the period & importantly, maps; and
• Gary McKay's book "Australia's Battlefields in Viet Nam: A traveller's guide".