Charming Traces

Classic (in the French Colonial style) & Modern

Our accommodation in Hue, the Saigon Morin Hotel, was a wonderful example of colonial architecture from the era of French colonisation (1858-1956). The style itself is charming and admirably suited to a tropical lifestyle (read: no concrete boxes with installed aircon). 

The Morin Hotel had been built in 1901 by businessman, Mr Morin and photographs of guests from this era grace the walls. It has been updated since then (aircon etc) but still retains its period charm. For those interested, a detailed history can be found on the hotel's informative web site.

In 1858, Danang was captured by the French, along with Saigon (1861). The southern part of Vietnam was annexed as a French colony. Catholicism & Westernisation that Minh Mang had so opposed had finally infiltrated. Nguyen Anh's rise to power and rise of the Nguyen dynasty (1792-1883) had rested upon French support.

Elegant Notre Dame Cathedral

And there was even something of an earlier history; French and Chinese power struggles and intrigue had plagued the court since the early 1770's. The French, on occupation, renamed their area, Coochin China. Later, they moved into the north (renaming it Tonkin) and central areas (renamed Annam).

One positive outcome of the occupation is an abundance of colonial architecture ranging from grand cathedrals to humble shop houses. Earlier examples of this style can be found in Saigon. We visited Notre Dame Cathedral (1883), Saigon's largest church; the fabulous almost art deco Post Office (Buu Dien); and the white facade of the Opera House (1899) that just screams culture! Our Hotel, the Grand on Dong Khoi Street, also dates from this era. Dong Khoi, a street renown for shopping, used to be known as Rue Catinat before 1954. (Read "The Quiet American" to be better acquainted with Rue Catinat.) The Grand Hotel has been operating since 1930's and it seems that the French have never left!

Bach Dinh (1909)

Nearby Vung Tau was known as Cape Saint Jacques during the French occupation. It provided a stunning sea-side resort for Saigon residents. Villas from the period are plentiful and thankfully many are restored or about to be. Perhaps the most interesting however, was the elegant Bach Dinh or White Villa (1909). Set in beautiful gardens up high on the Nui Lon hillside, the White Villa was built by French Governor-General Paul Doumer as his summer residence. By contrast, it was later said to be used to fire the first shots in anger against the French (1820). The villa has also seen life as a palace, a place of "refuge" for various kings and presidents, and finally its latest reincarnation as a museum.

It is a showcase of elegant colonial design and has fabulous views over the coastline and out to sea. I loved the style - open air and relaxed. I loved the detail - the shutters, the colours, the tiles and the balustrading.  I really loved the tiles - so French!  

The Villa is also the repository for a priceless collection of blue and white Ching Dynasty ceramics (mmm, my favourite colours) found in a shipwreck off the coast in 1990.

In the grounds, large muzzle-loading canons rest side-by-side with an elegant outdoor dance patio, resplendent with Italianate statues. 

On the day we visited, a crew were busy filming a music video...a romantic little ditty. Pity about the noisy Aussies in the background taking the micky (that means offering helpful advice.)  In this case to newly weds....  Helpful?  Maybe not!