Indigo Blues!

Luscious Stitches

I knew this was not a textile trip...it had been chosen by Mr Salt and he doesn't often get the chance to make these sorts of big decisions (despite being major shareholding partner!).  Naturally enough, I was devastated when Sapa was not on the itinerary, however I went armed with a sense of humour and a huge list of things to find and see.  All in good hope! 

So, this is my list and a brief, less than technical account of what I had actually seen:

1. Weaving - ikats, linens (hemp), silk brocades
2. Embroidery - cross stitch, chinese double-sided, applique
3. Dyeing - indigo; natural (vegetable) dyes
4. Decorations - buttons, silver ornaments, seeds etc

Hemp & Indigo

Saigon:  Despite warnings about the traffic mayhem (do try Cairo!) and only a little time to browse, I managed to find some interesting bits and bobs.  Mind you, I also discovered there are varying levels of fakery - good fakes (reproductions); acceptable fakes (bargain prices) and very poor quality (self-destruct on the way home!).  I should add an aside here, that from a cultural perspective, being able to reproduce a master's work is considered the highest of achievements.  That is not to say that there aren't others pushing the limits of tradition; individual expression is growing in acceptability.  So between watching for quality and bargaining, you really need to keep your wits about you.

Saigon Tax Trade Centre is the easy tourist's mecca.  Lots of enticing dust collectors abound at fixed price, which makes life easy when you've got a long list and not much time.  I found a very pretty ao dai in brocade silk.

Ben Thanh Market was a buzz of humanity and not recommended for anyone slightly claustrophobic but it did not have the textiles that I was looking for.  Again, lots of everything imaginable, including pigs ears, and silk ready-mades.

The appropriately named Lucky Plaza, on Dong Koi Street, yielded an interesting SAPA full of fashions by designer Vo Pham Vu Dong.  She uses hill tribe textiles in her designs and accessorises with ethnic crafts. The shop was well stocked.  At last I was getting somewhere! 

Found Twice, Closed Twice

One shop that proved quite elusive was Vietnam Quilts.  Part of the larger community organisation of Vietnam Plus, Vietnam Quilts provides employment and income for women.  Following a referral from a friend and an article she found in DUQ (an Aussie quilting mag), I eventually found it - only a block from our hotel - at 68 Ngo Duc Ke!  However I managed to time my visits when it was either closed or closing, as you do!  They did have a lovely selection of quilts; all beautifully made in a variety of patterns including traditional designs. They also have a shop in Hanoi. 

Hoi An:  Known for its tailoring,  Hoi An has a connection with silk trading that goes back over many centuries. Whilst we were on our city walk, I had heard the click-clack of looms. I couldn't wait to break ranks to return to the shop! 

Frames in the Factory

At 41 Le Loi (both location & shop name), girls were bent over frames busily sewing exquisite embroideries, some double-sided technical masterpieces of classical patterns.  Upstairs was the sewing room for the Silkworm Tailors who did a brisk trade with our group.  Having had time in India and Nepal, I was not in need of tailoring services but later wished I had! 

At the rear of the shop was the floor loom, set up for weaving silk lengths, now really for tourist edification.  It would not have been uncommon in years gone by however, for many looms to be set up to produce dazzling silks so attractive to foreign merchants. 

Weaving on Looms

The Thang Loi handcrafts factory, on the outskirts of Hoi An, has also been recommended as having a large offering of beautiful silks and an area set aside to demonstrate traditional silk weaving on ancient looms.

One of Hoi An's specialties is silk lanterns.  At night the old town is resplendent with coloured lanterns of all shapes and sizes, adding a fairy tale touch to an already intriguing city.  They are made of silk stretched over bamboo frames and come in a variety traditional shapes; each shop seeming to have its own specialty.

In Vietnam, colour is its own special reward

On referral from another friend, and perhaps my best find, was Reaching Out (Hoa Nhap) Handicrafts at 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc.  This Fair Trade gift shop sells items made by crafts people with disabilities. The items were well made, priced reasonably and all sold with a smile!  

I found some nice items made from ethnic embroideries and indigo dyeing and purchased a large, pieced quilt top. The top had more than enough textile technique examples to satisfy even me! I also found a perfect solution to wanting some fat quarters of silk brocades....you want what??  The ladies had made a beautiful wall hanging, complete with bamboo hanger, from a colourful selection of brocades. Best of all, it was already made up - one less UFO for me!  I dashed back a second time to pick up some little gifts for family & friends - I'm glad I did, I didn't quite make it to the shopping mecca of Hanoi, the Old Quarter.

Hanoi:  That of course is not quite true (sigh). I did make it, but with my feet firmly planted in a cyclo, much to the Old Salt's relief. Even my photos were blurred...  Personally, I think he'd paid extra for speed and shop dodging.  Even on a cyclo it took over an hour to weave in and out of the old streets; all 36 of them named after the artisan guilds that once existed over 600 years ago. Hang Gai (hemp) is now the place to go for silks, clothing and embroideries. I spotted a shop with tribal handiwork but didn't make it back due to our pressing schedule and need for a recuperative cruise away from it all, at Ha Long.

Old Quarter Hanoi

Craft Link, a not-for-profit organisation has a shop on Van Mieu (#43) selling ethnic minority craft. The organisation is much more than just a retail outlet and works with others to preserve and document traditional handcrafts.

One area of interest for its fanciful tale (and lack of quilt supply shops), is Ho Truc Bach or White Silk Lake. Once the site of Lord Trinh Giang's (1729-1740) summer palace, it is said to have later housed (in confinement) his wayward concubines. Their punishment was to weave lengths of white silk for his princesses. This silk was famed for its beauty.

Embroidery & Cross Stitching

Silk Tunic & Dragons with Personality

Stash Busters:  I came away with having satisfied my list fairly well, however I seem to have collected rather too many handbags and purses and not enough (well, none at all really!) pieces for patchwork.  Deconstruction seems to be one of the latest fads, so I may have to follow suit; perhaps a 3D handbag quilt?