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| Vung Tau, 2007 |
But first, we had to get there! We strolled from our hotel in Saigon along the waterfront to the hydrofoil jetty for an 8am departure. Could that oddly shaped, rather neglected contraption possibly be our hydrofoil? Yes, I'm afraid so.... (Coming from Sydney, you do have different expectations). Despite my reservations, we really did glide down the river quite nicely and had many, many chances to almost graze our whiskers on somewhat larger rusting hulks; those that spend their lives busily plying oceans and rivers, although I'm not sure how they manage to stay afloat.
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| Map of Locations |
We were quickly transferred to our hotel, The Palace, conveniently central. The landscape is quite different here with steep surrounding hills and a strong fishing focus; not too settled and very well cared for. Vung Tau, once a French resort town in colonial times, became a venue for local leave, or R&C, during the Vietnam War.
So with only a little time to recover from green gills and armed with our own stash of loo paper, we began, with varying emotions, to retrace those locations and events special to Australia's involvement 1962 to 1972.
Assembling the Task Force (1962-1972)
Nui Dat was home to the Australian Task Force Base. At one time it housed some 5000 troops. The site took in quite a large area (12k perimeter) and we visited a number of locations including Luscombe Field, took in views over the area from SAS Hill, inspected an Artillery command post bunker in the rubber trees and saw areas where specific groups, including 3 Cav were housed. Some in our group brought along old photos which helped us to visually reconstruct what the base had looked like during those years. Now it is a quiet home to Vietnamese army, rubber plantations, and small villages.
Vung Tau Port and Airforce Base. Very little infrastructure remains of the RAAF Airforce base on Quoc Lo Sia. Also due to government restrictions, we were unable to take photographs of the area. Nearby is the infamous Alaska Barge Company, allegedly a front for the CIA at the time, and other buildings used as port facilities.
1ALSG (Australian Logistic Support Group) was established in May 1966. The support base covered a huge area near the coast in Vung Tau. It is now hard to visualise because of developments, however an imposing VC Memorial provides a vantage point of the area and views out to the coast.
Long Tan (18 August 1966)
Long Tan is remembered for a famous battle that took place in 1966. A large white cross in a rubber plantation marks the site where D Company, 6RAR, fought. We attended a Commemorative Service (41st) with many others including the Australian Ambassador and Defence Attaché.
Needless to say, I felt a bit guilty at knowing so little about what actually happened at the time. Like many, I mostly heard about the protests and the politics. However our guide, Garry, gave us an excellent overview of battle specifics, which was made all the more poignant by having details added by one of our group, a veteran of the battle itself. August 18th is also celebrated as Vietnam Veterans' Day; an opportunity to commemorate nationally those who served and died in Vietnam.
Tet Offensive (29 January 1968)
Hoa Long township had become a resettlement area for displaced and therefore unfriendly villagers from Long Phuoc and Long Tan. It was the site of much sniper fire and many ambushes for the Aussies, particularly during 8-9 Feb 1968 post Tet. It's apparently as famous for its dances (taken in much the same vein as left handed screwdrivers)!
Out of Dat Do village is a Warrior Graveyard worth visiting and fairly typical of memorial sites across the country. We seemed to be at the mercy of the site manager due to a change in itinerary, however we were eventually allowed in.
Other
We struggled up a hill, HHHarrier style, to a Cao Dai complex with a nice view from their prayer point. Having suffered through a recent typhoon, their temple was little more than a rudimentary construction of salvaged materials. Still, we were kindly invited to tea and our greatest challenge for the day became managing the shoe "on/off" thing.
FSB Horseshoe on Route 23. Said to be an extinct volcano, once heavily fortified is now quarried, so we were only able to see it from a distance.
Long Phuoc Tunnels. Restored and very touristy remains of tunnels used by the VC; they have caches for food, weapons and even hospitals.
Battle of Binh Ba (6 June 1969)
Another famous battle was fought at Binh Ba village. It is considered one of Australia's most successful actions.
A little R&C
The Flags. Named for the flags of allied nations that were assembled in the square, "The Flags" was once a popular meeting spot for diggers visiting Vung Tau. Situated close to Front Beach (Bai Truoc), it is now the site for some heavy duty tourist bothering.
Back Beach & Peter Badcoe Club. The area to the east of Vung Tau was known as Back Beach and site of the famous Peter Badcoe Club. This area is personally famous for a helicopter rescue of a certain person from a sinking sailing dingy out in strong bay currents.
The Grand Hotel. Somewhat of an icon of the war years, this hotel was the "officers' club". I'm sure the walls could tell many an eyebrow-raising story. Instead, we were returned to more refined and cultured times as a troupe of classical musicians, all in costume and playing traditional instruments, serenaded us.
Ned Kelly Bar. An Aussie favourite, with very attentive bar girls and a chance to relive old memories. We managed to recognise a few names on the "wall of signatures" inside the restaurant After taking in the atmosphere, we managed a delicious seafood dinner over at the Blue Ocean Restaurant, on the nearby main wharf.
With the weather changing and some choppy seas pounding the esplanade, we were all somewhat relieved to be taking the bus back to Saigon and on to the end of the first part of our tour.
Some of the many informative resources I came across were:
So with only a little time to recover from green gills and armed with our own stash of loo paper, we began, with varying emotions, to retrace those locations and events special to Australia's involvement 1962 to 1972.
Assembling the Task Force (1962-1972)
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| Nui Dat, 3 Cav Location |
Vung Tau Port and Airforce Base. Very little infrastructure remains of the RAAF Airforce base on Quoc Lo Sia. Also due to government restrictions, we were unable to take photographs of the area. Nearby is the infamous Alaska Barge Company, allegedly a front for the CIA at the time, and other buildings used as port facilities.
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| View over the ALSG |
Long Tan (18 August 1966)
Long Tan is remembered for a famous battle that took place in 1966. A large white cross in a rubber plantation marks the site where D Company, 6RAR, fought. We attended a Commemorative Service (41st) with many others including the Australian Ambassador and Defence Attaché.
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| Long Tan Veterans |
Tet Offensive (29 January 1968)
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| Ba Ria Water Tower |
In 1968, the Communists launched surprise attacks that coincided with Tet (Vietnamese New Year) celebrations on almost every major city or town, including military bases, in South Vietnam. The attacks were also undertaken during a time of agreed ceasefire. The town of Ba Ria, the provincial capital of then named Phuoc Tuy, saw some major skirmishes. A highlight was the story of the lone VC sniper on the water tower in the centre of town.
Our stopover on the main road near the tower inadvertently caused minor traffic chaos, so we scarpered and left it all to the local authorities to sort out - as you do!
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| Dat Do VC Graves |
Out of Dat Do village is a Warrior Graveyard worth visiting and fairly typical of memorial sites across the country. We seemed to be at the mercy of the site manager due to a change in itinerary, however we were eventually allowed in.
Other
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| Taking Tea in the Long Hais |
Long Hai Hills. A notorious VC enclave (an extensive bunker system) set in rugged mountains, the Long Hais were heavily mined. Unfortunately, it saw huge loss of life. The area was otherwise known as the Minh Dam Secret Zone.
We struggled up a hill, HHHarrier style, to a Cao Dai complex with a nice view from their prayer point. Having suffered through a recent typhoon, their temple was little more than a rudimentary construction of salvaged materials. Still, we were kindly invited to tea and our greatest challenge for the day became managing the shoe "on/off" thing.
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| Near the Horseshoe |
Long Phuoc Tunnels. Restored and very touristy remains of tunnels used by the VC; they have caches for food, weapons and even hospitals.
Battle of Binh Ba (6 June 1969)
Another famous battle was fought at Binh Ba village. It is considered one of Australia's most successful actions.
A little R&C
The Flags. Named for the flags of allied nations that were assembled in the square, "The Flags" was once a popular meeting spot for diggers visiting Vung Tau. Situated close to Front Beach (Bai Truoc), it is now the site for some heavy duty tourist bothering.
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| Back Beach |
The Grand Hotel. Somewhat of an icon of the war years, this hotel was the "officers' club". I'm sure the walls could tell many an eyebrow-raising story. Instead, we were returned to more refined and cultured times as a troupe of classical musicians, all in costume and playing traditional instruments, serenaded us.
Ned Kelly Bar. An Aussie favourite, with very attentive bar girls and a chance to relive old memories. We managed to recognise a few names on the "wall of signatures" inside the restaurant After taking in the atmosphere, we managed a delicious seafood dinner over at the Blue Ocean Restaurant, on the nearby main wharf.
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| Artillery Command Post |
Some of the many informative resources I came across were:
- Vietnam Veteran's Association;
- A personal history by Ern Marshall, which is extremely detailed;
- Digger History also has some great photos from the period & importantly, maps; and
- Gary McKay's book "Australia's Battlefields in Viet Nam: A traveller's guide".
