Flores. By far the most remote island and said to be
the most easterly point of Europe, this fragile island is what I image Portugal
was like some hundred years ago. Dotted
with little villages, bright green fields hedged by blue hydrangeas and
surrounded by wild seas and huge basalt cliffs – we loved it. The cottages in particular - little white buildings in traditional style with vivid blue trim and every window hung with lace. This island is renowned for its lace, crochet and embroidery, although we were unable to find much evidence of it – perhaps too precious a commodity to make for tourists. Interestingly, we were told Flores was settled to grow woad (indigo) commercially.
Faial. Friendly Faial is home to Horta, destination
and safe harbour for trans-Atlantic sailors.
This small harbour town has been host to many Grand Voyages over the
centuries, although that nasty Sir Walter Raleigh did burn it to the ground in
1597.
Horta’s museum, housed in a
building of historical consequence, has in its collection a traditional long
black cloak and hood worn by women in 18th c. Now seldom worn, we were fortunate to see
this capote and capelo being worn at a Marina-side shindig – a bit of an island
produce & cultural affair. (The attached photo is a bit fuzzy but you'll get the gist.)
Faial is
also known for its traditional straw on tulle embroidery
although we didn’t see any examples on our round island bus jaunt. We did discover later that had we stopped at Capelo Village we could have seen local handicrafts being made.
Pico. Pico is the summit of the greatest mountain
range in the world; one of a number of volcanos, many submarine, along the
Mid-Atlantic Ridge. We headed for the
wine museum sheltered under this fuming, cloud encrusted brow to learn about traditional
methods employed in island wine growing and making. (Oh well, someone has to do
it in the name of research!) Its wines have graced many an aristocratic table over the years.Here, at the Museum, I also learned about local production of a red dye made from the fruits and seeds of the dragon tree - seen at left. Red dye was used to colour threads for weaving cloth. Pico is also known for scrimshaw, lacework and cheeses.
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| Essential velvet & red combo necessary to attract bulls |
Sao Jorge. We had planned to stop here but at the mercy
of the winds, it was not to be. Saint
George, like Corvo, has a history of
handloom weaving. Corvo folk typically
used dark blue (indigo) and white threads in traditional complex methods of
stripe seen in their woollen hats – a bit like fair isle patterning. Sao Jorge added red to the mix (dragon’s
blood) and produced colchas de ponto alto or high point quilts woven on
handlooms.
Terceira. Although famous for its loom woven quilts made from geometric shapes (squares, diamonds and strips) from multi-coloured wools and hand sewn embroidery on white or red linen, we saw few examples on our travels round this lush island. Red & yellow woven jacquard weaving is also said to be popular.
Sao Miguel has a history more focused on tea and pineapples. One can imagine these extraordinary treats grown on Sao Miguel gracing tables of kings and noblemen. Ponta Delgada was our last stop before heading on to mainland Portugal and it is certainly the most modern city of the islands. We gave textile seeking and museums a miss and went instead to the village of Furnas for a soak in hot bubbling springs and a walk through age old botanic gardens.
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| Picture Postcard Gardens in Sao Miguel (Furnas Village) |
