We arrived to a frenzied Cairo and settled down into our hotel with a convenient mosque next door. The muezzin’s call to prayer was our early morning summons – just what we needed to get out and about early. We stayed at the neighbourly Salma Hotel and shopped locally for our provisions. Getting across the main streets however required a certain lemming attitude. Luckily for us we seemed to have rather nice policemen hold up the traffic to ensure we escaped unscathed.
 |
| Cairo on a clear-ish day. Don't hesitate, dive right in... |
We had a few days before our tour started, so after a quick glance at our upcoming itinerary, we jumped headlong into our own discovery of Cairo. First stop, after a hair-raising taxi ride, was the frenzied Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, now over 700 years old. In an instant, you can be nowhere else except Egypt. This traditional area with its narrow maze of streets and enthusiastic shopkeepers is a bargain hunter’s paradise. Somehow, these expert hagglers can convince you to part with your money. We did buy a beautiful alabaster bowl.
The bustling medieval area is divided by goods sold. Mosques and ancient structures seem to tumble over you as you make your way through crowded streets. I half expected to see a camel or two. We stopped for mint tea, watching social gatherings of men smoking their shishas. A nearby cart of exotically coloured women’s underwear seemed entirely at odds with drearily dressed shoppers – but it was selling well!
 |
| Are we there yet? |
I had to go to the street of Tentmakers, Sharia Kheiymiya. It is sited not far from the medieval gate, Bab Zuweila (1092), the last remaining gate of Fatimid Cairo’s walls. This gate is named after fierce Berber warriors who were charged with guarding this entrance into the city. The Tentmakers’ applique work was interesting but I was disappointed with the quality of stitching I saw – clearly I didn’t find the best craftsmen. On the promise of seeing quality work though, we ended up in a carpet shop…. Ah, now that’s salesmanship. We escaped into a shawerma (kebab or meat & salad roll) café for a local bite washed down with super-strong, sweet coffee. On the way out, a sweet seller encouraged me to take home a tray of his sugary saturated goodies. Who could resist!
(I didn't take photos of the Tentmakers because I didn't buy from them. That would have been bad manners in any language. I am pleased to report that friends who have visited the Tentmakers more recently, have come back with some beautiful work. So, follow Jenny Bowker’s directions and bone up on her advice before leaving home.)
