A Scenic View

Contemporary Period (1912-current)

Modern Domestic Architecture

Kyoto Station

I’m not intending to discuss post war or modern Japanese art given that we were seeking traditional textiles in an ancient capital.  However one structure that could not be easily missed in Kyoto was its Station.  Built in 1997, it stands a towering 16 storeys.  Our hotel was just across the road from this imposing structure and we gradually began to love it.  After all, it was central to our daily commutes and housed an impressive department store.   Not that we could fit into any of the clothing on offer but the massive food hall ensured we managed to eat well (on a very tight budget) and exposed us to the eating habits of locals.  From it we also had a view of the Kyoto Tower (1964).  Dubbed the “burning candle”, it offers views over Kyoto at a price.  We settled for the observation deck of the Kyoto Station, but I won’t forget those stairs or steep elevators too soon!

Although not modern, whilst on the topic of architecture it is worthwhile noting the features of Japanese Pagodas, a style developed to suit local conditions once Japan had shaken free of Chinese and Korean influence.  A typical Japanese pagoda has a square plan, rises 3-5 storeys, up to a height of 150 and supports a spire of Rings of Heaven.  The round floor is usually used for shrines and images, whilst upper floors provided observation platforms.  Each level is suspended around central pole which allowed it to resist earth tremors.

Bicycles are still very popular.  This station parking space attests to that!

Courting the West

Meiji Restoration (1868-1912)

Feudal rule had lingered for seven centuries. Eventually, Imperial power was restored in 1868.  Western nations were demanding trade and the resulting exposure to these cultural influences, led the Japanese to respond in interesting ways.  Although initially accepting, it did not take long before there was a return to classical and traditional themes and techniques, albeit with a modern innovative edge.  The Japanese have a love of order and natural beauty. Their art is indicative of a sensitive and refined taste, with motifs full of detail and meaning.  Rarely overpowered by outside influences, artisans were skilled at imitating to their best advantage and develop a truly Japanese style. 

Isuien Garden, Nara, a walking garden, was constructed during this period, as was the nearby Deer Park (1880).  These rather cheeky Sika Deer knew exactly where their next meal was coming from...

Meiji Shrine

The Meiji Shrine (1920) in Tokyo is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken to commemorate their role in the Meiji Restoration.  We visited this Shrine located in a heavily forested park and watched as a wedding party made their way to the nearby Memorial Hall.

Shinto Wedding Party

Dress to Rule

Edo Period (1615-1868)

The Tokugawa Shogunate gained control of the government in 1603 and established a new capital at Yedo (Tokyo).  The Nijo-jo Castle, dating from 1626 was built by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Whilst Edo continued to be the capital of Japan, Kyoto remained as the home of the Imperial Court.  This lavish and extensive build was a symbolic reminder of the Emperor’s demise. One of the most significant features of this era was the shogun’s repressive policies which included strict codes of behaviour affecting every aspect of life.  However, stable government and new economic patterns meant art was available to all classes especially craftsmen and tradesmen.  Art began to break free of its constraints and artisans, supported by an increasingly wealthy merchant class, branched out and experimented. 

Traditional Farmhouses near Takayama

Classic Timber Townhouses,
Pontocho District, Kyoto

The appeal of and need for art by the masses saw the woodblock invented.  Although introduced from China in the 8 century, printmaking came to fore as demand for less expensive illustrated books, copies of famous paintings, religious pictures and shrine souvenirs increased (for example, prints of Buddha). A famous name connected with colour prints, paintings and drawings was Hokusai (1760-1849).  A master of composition, his most famous print series was “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji”. A very energetic and versatile artist, he was known as “the old man mad on drawing” and left a legacy of thousands of prints and drawings. Scenes of the “floating world” and kabuki actors were popular with westerners.

Modern Day Maiko

The Gion District of old Kyoto was initially developed to provide for the needs of travellers and visitors to the, even then, historic city and its shrines.  It became one of Japan’s most exclusive Geisha districts and is now an important repository of kyo-machiya, or traditional timber townhouses.

Fabulous Design, everywhere...

Peace & Stability

Momoyama (1573-1615)

Two military commanders rose to power during this period attempting to bring peace and political stability after the last 100 years of warfare.  The Momoyama (Peach Hill) district of Kyoto became the seat of government while a further 40 years of conflict ensued.  Despite the turmoil and an aversion to earlier “excesses”, a leisured and moneyed upper class rose to support the arts.  Craftsmen from Korea particularly influenced art and the period is best known for its prolific use of gold and precious metals.

Kenshunmon Gate Imperial Palace Kyoto

Castle building reached its peak in the 16^th century.  The concept of fortification was not new, however following the introduction of gun warfare by Portuguese, castles needed to be built on larger scale and with better protection.  Osaka Castle shows a blending of Japanese and European styles typical of this evolution.  Our nearest brush with fortified walls was to see the outside of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto.

Walls with a story

One of the greatest innovations of this period was folding or sliding screens.  Painted with landscapes, these large screens were developed for private residences of the affluent.  Masters included Sansetsu and Korin (1658-1716), who was considered outstanding, famous for painting the Rough Waves (1704) screen. He painted ideal beauty, focusing on abstract rather than realistic treatment.  Korin’s style still influences modern painters.

An elaborate screen from the period (wiki)

The first westerners arrived during this time and brought with them arts, technology and customs unseen before in Japan.  It must have been like one of those "walking on the moon" moments.

Classic Restraint

Muromachi (1333-1573)

In 1333, Ashikaga Takauji overthrew the Kamakura dynasty and became shogun.  He moved his government back to Kyoto, into the Muromachi district.  With the return of an imperial court, the arts returned to the aristocracy, becoming elitist. Zen influence regained confidence perhaps best demonstrated in monochromatic ink paintings which drew inspiration from nature.   Talents considered typically Japanese flourished included landscape painting, classical noh drama, flower arranging, and the tea ceremony. These disciplines, featuring classic restraint and simplicity, were a direct result of Zen influence.

Kinkaku-ji Temple (1397) since restored

Many of Kyoto’s famous gardens and temples date from this period, which is considered the classical age of garden design.  Integrating buildings into landscapes was an important feature.  The Golden Pavilion, a Zen Buddhist temple Kinkaku-ji (1397) is a beautiful example.  As we walked the gardens, we learned the temple’s tragic history - it was burned down by a novice monk in 1950.  Thankfully restored, the temple’s top two storeys glitter with gilt making it a perfect picture reflected in the lake.

Garden Art

We were fortunate to visit the famous rock garden at Ryoan-ji Zen Temple before crowds arrived.  It was pleasant to be able to observe the garden and get a feel for its Zen spirit.  The garden is quite small, has little vegetation (only moss) and is made up of stones set in white gravel.  Fifteen stones are arranged in specific groups and the gravel is raked daily by monks.  The garden is meant to be contemplated from a seated position on the veranda, where you are not meant to see the garden in its entirety.  This ability only comes only with enlightenment. 

Ryoan-ji Zen Temple Garden is even difficult to photograph

Elaborate tea ceremonies came into being during this period.  Like many cultured activities, the tea ceremony, conducted within a rigid framework of rules, provided guests an opportunity to appreciate artisan skills.  In particular, the tea ceremony gave rise to new types of pottery.  Cracks or chips were often repaired with coloured lacquer, which added interest and value to a pot or cup.

Perhaps not quite in keeping with tradition
but we learned so much

Japan gradually became overwhelmed by ambitious noblemen resulting in a general breakdown of law and order.  The Onin War broke out in 1467 and Kyoto was almost destroyed.

Missing Photos...not again!

Oh Bother!

It would seem that by closing down (and removing) the TT Early Years blog I have inadvertently deleted my photos from those posts migrated to this blog.  They did not fly across the cybersphere and will now need to be re-installed - one by one.  This is punishment indeed for skipping from Vox to Wordpress to Typepad to Blogger over the last few years. 

There will be plenty more "bah-humbugs" (or worse) uttered until this mess is sorted out....which will take time. I knew I shouldn't have patted that black cat yesterday.  He looked too smug.  

Feudal Rule

Kamakura (1185-1333)

This was a period of warrior values and adventure.  It was also a period of civil war and strife due to clan clashes.  Eventually, the seat of government was relocated by the Minamoto clan to Kamakura, a seaside village.  Art became more austere and, because of Samurai influence, to centre on a belief in the afterlife. Even so, portrayal of individuals was given realistic treatment.  Temples at Nara (Todai-ji) were restored although a new style of pagoda, reminiscent of the Chinese style was introduced.  Contact with China had been revived.  

From Wiki

During this time, the Mongols under Kublai Khan reached Korea in 1259 and sent a fleet to attack Japan in 1274. Mongol soldiers were repulsed and again in 1281.  Zen Buddhism arrived with monks escaping these Mongol invasions.  Zen doctrine, although initially treated with some suspicion, appealed to the Samurai class with its stark art forms filled with tension and drama.  Zen’s austerity influenced architecture with buildings presenting a simple, lineal grace and rational structure. 

Chion-in was originally built in 1234 to honour the founder of Amida Buddha in Japan.  Its temple beams are carved with the Tokugawa family crest (three hollyhock leaves) and nightingale floors (squeaky) to warn of intruders.  The grounds are the site for a monthly market and although the temple is a National Treasure, I need not explain where our attention was diverted.  

Samurai Armour (Wiki) looks
quite surreal even for body armour
(Kamakura Period)

Despite a society based on warrior values, artisans concentrated on improving techniques and art flourished.  Toshiro visited China in 1223 and returned setting up a kiln at Seto – this became world famous. Painting in inks became increasingly popular.  Ever evolving architecturally, the Kofuku-ji Temple complex at Nara had a 3 storeyed pagoda added (1185).  Later a 5 storeyed (1426) storeyed pagoda was added too.  Japanese sculptor, Unkei, carved two stunning guardians (1203) which flank the Todai-ji Temple in Nara.  His realistic works, and that of his sons, was based on close observation of individuals and meticulous studies of personality.