Tempting Ottoman Tile Work

As I reminisce over my photos from Turkey, I am still stunned by the many wonderful designs incorporated into tiles.  So, to finish up here’s a delicious few to contemplate – enough to send you running for your own design boards & coloured paints....

(Most of these photos came from the Topkapi Palace or the Archaeological Museum)

Textile Foraging

Traditional Textile Arts, Turkey

Both photos from the Bursa City Museum

Costumes. Folk costumes are worn mostly by village people on special occasions.  We didn't visit many ethnological museums during our stay…  However, there’s always next year! 

Knitting & Crochet.  Look for some wildly exotic socks or vintage-style crochet in the tiny village of Sirince.  A glass or two of their fruit wines will help decide your purchases.

Bursa, City Museum

Needle Lace.  Buy unusual needle lace jewellery made in a technique called oya.  We found pieces in both the Arasta & Grand Bazaar.  I found information on Pintrest (this link is just one of a few when you Google) and at a women’s cooperative web site, istanbuloya. 

Felting. In Konya, at the studio of Master Felter Mehmet Girgic, we had the age old craft of felting demonstrated for us. Silvia, his artist wife, explained the traditional Turkish method of kicking & rolling woollen fibres to have them felt.  She takes a modern approach, producing hand-dyed (in natural dyes) pieces.  The Ikonium Studio however still produce orders of sikke, or caps worn by whirling dervishes, as the family have done for generations.  

Silvia demonstrating felting techniques

Weaving. The closest we got to weaving was in Bursa at the Koza Han. Bursa had once been an important silk weaving city and, given the selection of goodies at the Han, settled its heritage as a principle trading market of the East. There was a fantastic selection of linen, silk and cotton available.  (I’m not sure if flax is woven any more, but it certainly was available in the 14th c.)  

Patchwork.  Try as we may, studios producing patchwork alluded us.  We were informed that quilting is (or maybe was) largely a domestic product and produced by men professionally – not at all in the style we associate with the craft. 

Serious textile shopping in the Koza Han, Bursa

Dyed, Printed & Painted Fabrics. Fabrics are dyed with either natural dyes or commercially available ones.  Silk or cotton ikat is a wonderful example and we saw many designs (mostly in cushions), although a lot is screen printed – a faster, cost effective method.  Real ikats can be had however, just buy from “creditable” shops in any bazaar, although Koza Han in Bursa is where I’d put my money.  Do ask where it was woven…  Turkey has its own variant of hand block printed fabrics called yazma. 

Wools dyed with natural materials, Ikonium Studio, Konya

Embroidery. I was lucky enough to find a tea dyed cotton/linen suzani.  Though not from Turkey, the heritage of the technique is nearby Uzbekistan.  Somehow I had it in my head that they were applique pieces, but after some detailed research, I’ve discovered that traditionally, suzani are indeed embroidered.  I just love my pomegranate design.

Knitting at home

Art is a Prayer

Each work of art is a prayer (quote from Lonely Planet's Guide to Turkey, p34)

I’m rounding off sailing season 2013 with an overview of my textile finds in Turkey.  This is by no means an in-depth or comprehensive review of Turkish Textiles, just a review of what I managed to find during my stay; a short time by any standard: 

Carpets on show in Goreme

Ottoman Era

Carpets & Kilims.  Now people write books about carpets and as I am no authority, all I’m prepared to say is that Turkish carpets are stunning.  Do yourself a favour and visit Ruth (Tribal Collections in Goreme) for a run down on carpet “essentials” without any hassle.  If you can keep your eyes off the merchandise during the presentation, you will learn heaps.  Otherwise, if you’re just window shopping, you will have to sit on your hands until renovations of the Islamic Arts Museum in Istanbul are done.  And that could take a while. (I’ve just discovered that a new Carpet Museum has opened in Istanbul – very near the Hagia Sophia, so that may well be worth sussing out if you’re a carpet tragic.)

Costumes & Slippers.  The Hall of the Campaign Paiges in Topkapi Palace is the place to see (but not photograph, understandably) stunning Imperial costumes.  Fabulous silk and velvet designs, heavy with silver or gold threads, were woven on looms by master craftsmen.  Gorgeous leather slippers accompanied many outfits.  Thankfully for us, the garments were owned by the state and carefully stored with the passing of each sultan. 

Garment example in Bursa Ethnographic Museum

Modern Trends

Detail on modern textile trends and artisans will have to wait for another year.  My hands were full just taking in the extent of the history in this amazing country and fiddling on the edges with a bit of textile research.

Costume seen in Bursa's Bazaar

Next Post: Traditional Turkish Textiles

(An informative site I’ve managed to find on the web has been put up by the Turkish Cultural Foundation.  It is well researched and detailed.  Better still, there are photos illustrating each specific area of interest - for me – textile techniques.  This information will certainly round out my very brief & basic comments on the textile arts I was able to find.)

A Chance Meeting

Cagliari, Sardinia
13th July 2013

This year has been rather textile “poor” I’m sad to say.  However, one welcome surprise was this window display we discovered in Cagliari.  I cannot begin to explain where these wonderful costumes and weavings came from as I understand each village has its own style.  However, the embroidery and weaving was particularly fine. 

Reflected in the background is busy Largo Carlo Felice

The Oristano Tourist Information Centre gave us a brochure on the textile museum located in Samugheo.  This village is noted for its textiles and in August has a “craft fair” at which tessile items are available to purchase.  Sadly, we had neither time nor transport for a visit (this year?), making our find in Cagliari all the more exciting. 

Here’s a link to the Regional Museum of Sardinian Textile Art in Samugheo.  If the quality of Oristano’s Antiquarium Arborense is any measure of provincial museums, this one should be well worth the visit.

Dark skirts & reflection is not a good mix, however
the lace on each blouse was stunning

A Scenic View

Contemporary Period (1912-current)

Modern Domestic Architecture

Kyoto Station

I’m not intending to discuss post war or modern Japanese art given that we were seeking traditional textiles in an ancient capital.  However one structure that could not be easily missed in Kyoto was its Station.  Built in 1997, it stands a towering 16 storeys.  Our hotel was just across the road from this imposing structure and we gradually began to love it.  After all, it was central to our daily commutes and housed an impressive department store.   Not that we could fit into any of the clothing on offer but the massive food hall ensured we managed to eat well (on a very tight budget) and exposed us to the eating habits of locals.  From it we also had a view of the Kyoto Tower (1964).  Dubbed the “burning candle”, it offers views over Kyoto at a price.  We settled for the observation deck of the Kyoto Station, but I won’t forget those stairs or steep elevators too soon!

Although not modern, whilst on the topic of architecture it is worthwhile noting the features of Japanese Pagodas, a style developed to suit local conditions once Japan had shaken free of Chinese and Korean influence.  A typical Japanese pagoda has a square plan, rises 3-5 storeys, up to a height of 150 and supports a spire of Rings of Heaven.  The round floor is usually used for shrines and images, whilst upper floors provided observation platforms.  Each level is suspended around central pole which allowed it to resist earth tremors.

Bicycles are still very popular.  This station parking space attests to that!

Courting the West

Meiji Restoration (1868-1912)

Feudal rule had lingered for seven centuries. Eventually, Imperial power was restored in 1868.  Western nations were demanding trade and the resulting exposure to these cultural influences, led the Japanese to respond in interesting ways.  Although initially accepting, it did not take long before there was a return to classical and traditional themes and techniques, albeit with a modern innovative edge.  The Japanese have a love of order and natural beauty. Their art is indicative of a sensitive and refined taste, with motifs full of detail and meaning.  Rarely overpowered by outside influences, artisans were skilled at imitating to their best advantage and develop a truly Japanese style. 

Isuien Garden, Nara, a walking garden, was constructed during this period, as was the nearby Deer Park (1880).  These rather cheeky Sika Deer knew exactly where their next meal was coming from...

Meiji Shrine

The Meiji Shrine (1920) in Tokyo is a Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken to commemorate their role in the Meiji Restoration.  We visited this Shrine located in a heavily forested park and watched as a wedding party made their way to the nearby Memorial Hall.

Shinto Wedding Party

Dress to Rule

Edo Period (1615-1868)

The Tokugawa Shogunate gained control of the government in 1603 and established a new capital at Yedo (Tokyo).  The Nijo-jo Castle, dating from 1626 was built by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Whilst Edo continued to be the capital of Japan, Kyoto remained as the home of the Imperial Court.  This lavish and extensive build was a symbolic reminder of the Emperor’s demise. One of the most significant features of this era was the shogun’s repressive policies which included strict codes of behaviour affecting every aspect of life.  However, stable government and new economic patterns meant art was available to all classes especially craftsmen and tradesmen.  Art began to break free of its constraints and artisans, supported by an increasingly wealthy merchant class, branched out and experimented. 

Traditional Farmhouses near Takayama

Classic Timber Townhouses,
Pontocho District, Kyoto

The appeal of and need for art by the masses saw the woodblock invented.  Although introduced from China in the 8 century, printmaking came to fore as demand for less expensive illustrated books, copies of famous paintings, religious pictures and shrine souvenirs increased (for example, prints of Buddha). A famous name connected with colour prints, paintings and drawings was Hokusai (1760-1849).  A master of composition, his most famous print series was “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji”. A very energetic and versatile artist, he was known as “the old man mad on drawing” and left a legacy of thousands of prints and drawings. Scenes of the “floating world” and kabuki actors were popular with westerners.

Modern Day Maiko

The Gion District of old Kyoto was initially developed to provide for the needs of travellers and visitors to the, even then, historic city and its shrines.  It became one of Japan’s most exclusive Geisha districts and is now an important repository of kyo-machiya, or traditional timber townhouses.

Fabulous Design, everywhere...

Peace & Stability

Momoyama (1573-1615)

Two military commanders rose to power during this period attempting to bring peace and political stability after the last 100 years of warfare.  The Momoyama (Peach Hill) district of Kyoto became the seat of government while a further 40 years of conflict ensued.  Despite the turmoil and an aversion to earlier “excesses”, a leisured and moneyed upper class rose to support the arts.  Craftsmen from Korea particularly influenced art and the period is best known for its prolific use of gold and precious metals.

Kenshunmon Gate Imperial Palace Kyoto

Castle building reached its peak in the 16^th century.  The concept of fortification was not new, however following the introduction of gun warfare by Portuguese, castles needed to be built on larger scale and with better protection.  Osaka Castle shows a blending of Japanese and European styles typical of this evolution.  Our nearest brush with fortified walls was to see the outside of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto.

Walls with a story

One of the greatest innovations of this period was folding or sliding screens.  Painted with landscapes, these large screens were developed for private residences of the affluent.  Masters included Sansetsu and Korin (1658-1716), who was considered outstanding, famous for painting the Rough Waves (1704) screen. He painted ideal beauty, focusing on abstract rather than realistic treatment.  Korin’s style still influences modern painters.

An elaborate screen from the period (wiki)

The first westerners arrived during this time and brought with them arts, technology and customs unseen before in Japan.  It must have been like one of those "walking on the moon" moments.

Classic Restraint

Muromachi (1333-1573)

In 1333, Ashikaga Takauji overthrew the Kamakura dynasty and became shogun.  He moved his government back to Kyoto, into the Muromachi district.  With the return of an imperial court, the arts returned to the aristocracy, becoming elitist. Zen influence regained confidence perhaps best demonstrated in monochromatic ink paintings which drew inspiration from nature.   Talents considered typically Japanese flourished included landscape painting, classical noh drama, flower arranging, and the tea ceremony. These disciplines, featuring classic restraint and simplicity, were a direct result of Zen influence.

Kinkaku-ji Temple (1397) since restored

Many of Kyoto’s famous gardens and temples date from this period, which is considered the classical age of garden design.  Integrating buildings into landscapes was an important feature.  The Golden Pavilion, a Zen Buddhist temple Kinkaku-ji (1397) is a beautiful example.  As we walked the gardens, we learned the temple’s tragic history - it was burned down by a novice monk in 1950.  Thankfully restored, the temple’s top two storeys glitter with gilt making it a perfect picture reflected in the lake.

Garden Art

We were fortunate to visit the famous rock garden at Ryoan-ji Zen Temple before crowds arrived.  It was pleasant to be able to observe the garden and get a feel for its Zen spirit.  The garden is quite small, has little vegetation (only moss) and is made up of stones set in white gravel.  Fifteen stones are arranged in specific groups and the gravel is raked daily by monks.  The garden is meant to be contemplated from a seated position on the veranda, where you are not meant to see the garden in its entirety.  This ability only comes only with enlightenment. 

Ryoan-ji Zen Temple Garden is even difficult to photograph

Elaborate tea ceremonies came into being during this period.  Like many cultured activities, the tea ceremony, conducted within a rigid framework of rules, provided guests an opportunity to appreciate artisan skills.  In particular, the tea ceremony gave rise to new types of pottery.  Cracks or chips were often repaired with coloured lacquer, which added interest and value to a pot or cup.

Perhaps not quite in keeping with tradition
but we learned so much

Japan gradually became overwhelmed by ambitious noblemen resulting in a general breakdown of law and order.  The Onin War broke out in 1467 and Kyoto was almost destroyed.

Missing Photos...not again!

Oh Bother!

It would seem that by closing down (and removing) the TT Early Years blog I have inadvertently deleted my photos from those posts migrated to this blog.  They did not fly across the cybersphere and will now need to be re-installed - one by one.  This is punishment indeed for skipping from Vox to Wordpress to Typepad to Blogger over the last few years. 

There will be plenty more "bah-humbugs" (or worse) uttered until this mess is sorted out....which will take time. I knew I shouldn't have patted that black cat yesterday.  He looked too smug.  

Feudal Rule

Kamakura (1185-1333)

This was a period of warrior values and adventure.  It was also a period of civil war and strife due to clan clashes.  Eventually, the seat of government was relocated by the Minamoto clan to Kamakura, a seaside village.  Art became more austere and, because of Samurai influence, to centre on a belief in the afterlife. Even so, portrayal of individuals was given realistic treatment.  Temples at Nara (Todai-ji) were restored although a new style of pagoda, reminiscent of the Chinese style was introduced.  Contact with China had been revived.  

From Wiki

During this time, the Mongols under Kublai Khan reached Korea in 1259 and sent a fleet to attack Japan in 1274. Mongol soldiers were repulsed and again in 1281.  Zen Buddhism arrived with monks escaping these Mongol invasions.  Zen doctrine, although initially treated with some suspicion, appealed to the Samurai class with its stark art forms filled with tension and drama.  Zen’s austerity influenced architecture with buildings presenting a simple, lineal grace and rational structure. 

Chion-in was originally built in 1234 to honour the founder of Amida Buddha in Japan.  Its temple beams are carved with the Tokugawa family crest (three hollyhock leaves) and nightingale floors (squeaky) to warn of intruders.  The grounds are the site for a monthly market and although the temple is a National Treasure, I need not explain where our attention was diverted.  

Samurai Armour (Wiki) looks
quite surreal even for body armour
(Kamakura Period)

Despite a society based on warrior values, artisans concentrated on improving techniques and art flourished.  Toshiro visited China in 1223 and returned setting up a kiln at Seto – this became world famous. Painting in inks became increasingly popular.  Ever evolving architecturally, the Kofuku-ji Temple complex at Nara had a 3 storeyed pagoda added (1185).  Later a 5 storeyed (1426) storeyed pagoda was added too.  Japanese sculptor, Unkei, carved two stunning guardians (1203) which flank the Todai-ji Temple in Nara.  His realistic works, and that of his sons, was based on close observation of individuals and meticulous studies of personality.

Artistic Women

More on the Heian Period

Visiting the Heian Shrine

Although not a construct of this era the Heian Shrine, a partial reproduction of the Heian Palace, was planned in 1895 to commemorate 1100 years of Heian-kyo’s existence.  Later, it came to symbolise the determination of Kyoto’s citizens to revive diminishing fortunes and a languishing culture after the capital was moved to Tokyo.  Graceful traditional court life is reflected in the brightly coloured shrine with its vermillion pillars and green roof.  We wandered past various buildings, admiring them for their dignified grandeur, then took some time to walk the Chinese inspired gardens.  Extensive grounds, known as Okazaki Park, contains museums, ornamental pools and a zoo.  Maruyama Park leads through giant overhanging oaks, inner gardens and ponds.  April is Cherry Blossom time and we hoped that a few blooms might still be left.  However, the heat and humidity had returned in earnest so we missed out on lavish tourist brochure displays. 

Garden views were special

Lacquer work was popularised during the Heian period. First discovered in China, lacquer work was introduced to Japan as early as 3 AD.  Most early examples can be found in Shosoin, Nara.  By the Heian period, craftsmen had achieved a high degree of skill and perfection and it was much in demand by the aristocracy and used as we use plastics today. Traditionally, lacquer is made by tightly covering a wooden core with silk.  Unishi (filtered sap of the lacquer tree which dries on contact with air) was painted over this core in a number of coats.  Each layer was left to dry in a damp chamber to prevent cracking.  Colour was enhanced by adding iron filings, gold, bronze and tin dust (metallic). Pearl shell inlay was also used.  The item was finished with a transparent coating. 

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The development of native characters in literature led to a popular trend of “love stories”, some written and illustrated by women.  This popular pastime led to an innovative art form – e-maki or the picture scroll.  The best known is “Tale of Prince Genji”.  An epic novel, it was written in the year 1000 by Murasaki Shikibu, a noblewoman of Kyoto. Her story tells of a life in an aristocratic society bound by courtly customs and is a fascinating read.  This site has some nice photographs too.

While courtly elegance sustained the aristocracy, a powerful force was on the rise in the provinces – the samurai class (1156).  

The powerful Fujiwara family was undermined and destroyed.  Rebellion ensued and finally a military government was established some 500 miles from Kyoto.  Life under the Samurai or warriors was austere and based on feudal social order.