Rare Fibres

Blue Heaven

Like all things new, we found bus procedure a challenge at first.  We entered through the rear door and exited via the front door, dropping our coins into a clever machine near the driver as we left.  It even gave out change.  Our destination was the Nishijin Precinct and we looked forward to exploring this heritage textile district, said to be as old as the city itself.

First stop was the amazing Aizenkobo Workshop of Master Indigo Dyer, Kenichi Utsuki.  He has a particularly attractive white noren curtain hanging over his front door.  This would be our first hands on experience of a real dyeing workshop using real indigo; great vats of the stuff bubbling away, sending out interesting wafts and staining everything it touched.  Mmmmm, can’t wait!  

Kyoto shibori is known as kyo-kanoko, another of Kyoto’s lovingly handmade textiles.  I chose a pre-tied shibori scarf (no-one could wait for me to tie it myself – a few years would be needed!) for this indigo tie dying experience.  We were surrounded by artisans and apprentices – just to be sure we got it right. 

Afterwards. Mr Kenichi Utsuki showcased his tsutsugaki collection as we sat transfixed on tatami mats in his traditional kyo-machiya (wooden townhouse). The wow factor was big that day and we learned so much about traditional Japanese textiles.  Of course, we all wanted to rush home and decorate in the rustic Japanese farmhouse style with lots of indigo fabrics and tatami mats.                                

Just around the corner from the Aizenkobo studio is Nishijin Textile Centre famous for its kimono, obi, weaving displays and craft sales.  In the basement were exhibitions, demonstrations and sales of Kyoto handicrafts.  We were treated to fashion parade of stunning costumes and admired kyo-yuzen, Kyoto’s local silk dyeing before spending big….as you must whilst on holidays!

Next was the studio of commercial hand weavers to see intricate silk weaving of an obi or kimono.  The OrinasukanMuseum (a collection of hand-made textiles) was housed in a weaving factory in the Nishijin precinct.  Nishi-jin ori is a special weaving technique for silk and this textile is only made in Kyoto. The Orinasukan Museum was set up to promote and preserve Kyoto’s handmade fabrics and support original thread dyeing techniques. 

On our way back to the hotel we discovered a local market in progress and nosed our way in to see if there was anything of interest. I’m not entirely sure but can assume it was the Myoren-ji Temple, which has a market on the 12th of each month.

Travelling with Locals

Cherry Blossom

Next morning we met to begin our tour.  On the way to the bus station and through the Kyoto Train Station, we explored food options including a huge food hall (depachika) in the Department store basement.  DJ’s, move over!  Here we came into contact with Japan’s favourite takeaway, the bento box lunch.  We were able to collect our Japan Rail passes inside the train station. Thus armed, we took off by bus to explore Kyoto’s offerings.  

We made our way up “Tea Pot Hill” climbing steep cobblestone paths lined with wonderful pottery shops.  Our destination, providing we didn’t stop too often to admire delicate Japanese tea sets, was Kiyomizu temple. 

The temple is a vast complex of shrines and pagodas built into a hillside with wonderful views across Kyoto.  Kiyomizu means “pure water” and many Japanese visit to take the sacred waters of the Otowa-no-taki Falls that flow through the complex. 

We were lucky enough to catch site of some maiko in beautiful traditional costumes amongst the madly flowering azaleas.  It was too late in the season for that burst of sweet pink cherry blossom (sakura) though.

Maiko with their red collars



Gion, on the eastern bank of the Kamogawa River is Edo era Japan and was developed to suit the needs of travellers and tourists in medieval times.  It became known for its tea houses (ochaya), famed for its geisha (geiko), and popular for its auspicious temples.  We learned that apprentice geisha are locally called maiko and their quarters, okiya. 

After exploring the Heian Shrine and its beautiful surrounding gardens (where we met an Australian exchange student), we made our way to the Museum of Traditional Craft & Industry.

Sadly I can’t remember a lot about this museum, however I have a couple of photos of some delightful silk fabrics that were on display.  Many silks are only woven in Kyoto and some are still loomed by hand.

Perhaps one of the best references I have for Japanese textiles is the book written by Sunny Yang and Rochelle M. Narasin "Textile Art of Japan" (2000).

  

Silks from the Museum of Traditional Craft & Industry

Fun & Excitement

Green Tea 

We arrived in the night and fell, full of airline food into our beds.  Our rooms in the New Miyako just across from the Kyoto Train Station, were cosily European, even with a fridge and tea making facilities.  So we unloaded our pre-purchased “tipple of choice”, arranged breakfast cereals and other snacks (we had carried from Australia) then, after a cup of green tea, promptly went to sleep.

Even small gardens were filled with beautiful blooms

Our tour based itself in Kyoto, which meant we had an easy time – no constant packing and unpacking with only an overnight bag for our trip up into the Japan Alps.  Of course the serious danger of this strategy meant that our bags began to bulge almost immediately. Kyoto was Japan’s capital for over 1000 years, so delightful fabric (of society?) can be experienced on every corner, almost.

(Doing my research, I’ve discovered that a number of venues we visited have changed since 2000.  So please don’t head off to Kyoto before ensuring that the places you might want to see are still in existence. This is an excellent information resource for Kyoto.)

Flowers even graced a weaving factory workplace

Visiting Kyoto in 2000

Konichi-wa again!  At last it is time to collect all my Japanese bits & bobs together and write something of our too brief tour (May 2000).  Luckily we had signed up for a textile specific tour.  I was really excited – largely because someone else was producing all the historic textile detail and special workshops or visits were arranged for us!  So just sit back and enjoy the ride.

Wonderful views

Speaking of ride, the group consisted of 12 ladies.  We based ourselves in Kyoto, Japan's ancient capital for over 1000 years.  We bussed and trained locally, rode the fast train to Tokyo and took a scenic train ride into the hills to visit Takayama. We walked through markets and narrow streets, explored monuments and shopped at busy city department stores.  We ate at local cafés, experienced traditional foods and customs, made good use of the nearby train station’s supermarket and got to really like sushi. All this without speaking a word of Japanese!  Margaret, our tour leader, had language skills which stood us in good stead but we were always treated with kindness and good humour.  Even waiting resolutely in line to use the only European toilet in the train station ladies block…. 

and inspiration

I’ve deliberately left descriptions quite simple given the historical information packed into the previous historical notes.  I don’t have as many photos as I’d like either.  Pre-digital of course! Despite taking endless “rolls”, they’re invariably poor quality and I’m disappointed to have so few photos of the truly amazing things we saw and did.  I don’t intend to give a detailed account of each and every textile experience we had; there’s too much learned study out there and being some 13 years ago, my memory is hazy.  Besides you really have to live the experience.  Books, photographs or videos can never replace the thrill of really being there. Just go!

on every corner.

Tempting Ottoman Tile Work

As I reminisce over my photos from Turkey, I am still stunned by the many wonderful designs incorporated into tiles.  So, to finish up here’s a delicious few to contemplate – enough to send you running for your own design boards & coloured paints....

(Most of these photos came from the Topkapi Palace or the Archaeological Museum)

Textile Foraging

Traditional Textile Arts, Turkey

Both photos from the Bursa City Museum

Costumes. Folk costumes are worn mostly by village people on special occasions.  We didn't visit many ethnological museums during our stay…  However, there’s always next year! 

Knitting & Crochet.  Look for some wildly exotic socks or vintage-style crochet in the tiny village of Sirince.  A glass or two of their fruit wines will help decide your purchases.

Bursa, City Museum

Needle Lace.  Buy unusual needle lace jewellery made in a technique called oya.  We found pieces in both the Arasta & Grand Bazaar.  I found information on Pintrest (this link is just one of a few when you Google) and at a women’s cooperative web site, istanbuloya. 

Felting. In Konya, at the studio of Master Felter Mehmet Girgic, we had the age old craft of felting demonstrated for us. Silvia, his artist wife, explained the traditional Turkish method of kicking & rolling woollen fibres to have them felt.  She takes a modern approach, producing hand-dyed (in natural dyes) pieces.  The Ikonium Studio however still produce orders of sikke, or caps worn by whirling dervishes, as the family have done for generations.  

Silvia demonstrating felting techniques

Weaving. The closest we got to weaving was in Bursa at the Koza Han. Bursa had once been an important silk weaving city and, given the selection of goodies at the Han, settled its heritage as a principle trading market of the East. There was a fantastic selection of linen, silk and cotton available.  (I’m not sure if flax is woven any more, but it certainly was available in the 14th c.)  

Patchwork.  Try as we may, studios producing patchwork alluded us.  We were informed that quilting is (or maybe was) largely a domestic product and produced by men professionally – not at all in the style we associate with the craft. 

Serious textile shopping in the Koza Han, Bursa

Dyed, Printed & Painted Fabrics. Fabrics are dyed with either natural dyes or commercially available ones.  Silk or cotton ikat is a wonderful example and we saw many designs (mostly in cushions), although a lot is screen printed – a faster, cost effective method.  Real ikats can be had however, just buy from “creditable” shops in any bazaar, although Koza Han in Bursa is where I’d put my money.  Do ask where it was woven…  Turkey has its own variant of hand block printed fabrics called yazma. 

Wools dyed with natural materials, Ikonium Studio, Konya

Embroidery. I was lucky enough to find a tea dyed cotton/linen suzani.  Though not from Turkey, the heritage of the technique is nearby Uzbekistan.  Somehow I had it in my head that they were applique pieces, but after some detailed research, I’ve discovered that traditionally, suzani are indeed embroidered.  I just love my pomegranate design.

Knitting at home

Art is a Prayer

Each work of art is a prayer (quote from Lonely Planet's Guide to Turkey, p34)

I’m rounding off sailing season 2013 with an overview of my textile finds in Turkey.  This is by no means an in-depth or comprehensive review of Turkish Textiles, just a review of what I managed to find during my stay; a short time by any standard: 

Carpets on show in Goreme

Ottoman Era

Carpets & Kilims.  Now people write books about carpets and as I am no authority, all I’m prepared to say is that Turkish carpets are stunning.  Do yourself a favour and visit Ruth (Tribal Collections in Goreme) for a run down on carpet “essentials” without any hassle.  If you can keep your eyes off the merchandise during the presentation, you will learn heaps.  Otherwise, if you’re just window shopping, you will have to sit on your hands until renovations of the Islamic Arts Museum in Istanbul are done.  And that could take a while. (I’ve just discovered that a new Carpet Museum has opened in Istanbul – very near the Hagia Sophia, so that may well be worth sussing out if you’re a carpet tragic.)

Costumes & Slippers.  The Hall of the Campaign Paiges in Topkapi Palace is the place to see (but not photograph, understandably) stunning Imperial costumes.  Fabulous silk and velvet designs, heavy with silver or gold threads, were woven on looms by master craftsmen.  Gorgeous leather slippers accompanied many outfits.  Thankfully for us, the garments were owned by the state and carefully stored with the passing of each sultan. 

Garment example in Bursa Ethnographic Museum

Modern Trends

Detail on modern textile trends and artisans will have to wait for another year.  My hands were full just taking in the extent of the history in this amazing country and fiddling on the edges with a bit of textile research.

Costume seen in Bursa's Bazaar

Next Post: Traditional Turkish Textiles

(An informative site I’ve managed to find on the web has been put up by the Turkish Cultural Foundation.  It is well researched and detailed.  Better still, there are photos illustrating each specific area of interest - for me – textile techniques.  This information will certainly round out my very brief & basic comments on the textile arts I was able to find.)