First stop was the amazing Aizenkobo Workshop of Master Indigo Dyer, Kenichi Utsuki. He has a particularly attractive white noren
curtain hanging over his front door.
This would be our first hands on experience of a real dyeing workshop
using real indigo; great vats of the stuff bubbling away, sending out
interesting wafts and staining everything it touched. Mmmmm, can’t wait!
Kyoto shibori is known as kyo-kanoko, another of
Kyoto’s lovingly handmade textiles. I
chose a pre-tied shibori scarf (no-one could wait for me to tie it myself – a
few years would be needed!) for this indigo tie dying experience. We were surrounded by artisans and
apprentices – just to be sure we got it right.
Afterwards. Mr Kenichi Utsuki showcased his tsutsugaki collection as we sat
transfixed on tatami mats in his traditional kyo-machiya (wooden townhouse). The wow factor was big that day and
we learned so much about traditional Japanese textiles. Of course, we all wanted to rush home and
decorate in the rustic Japanese farmhouse style with lots of indigo fabrics and
tatami mats.
Just around the corner from the Aizenkobo studio is Nishijin Textile Centre famous for its
kimono, obi, weaving displays and craft sales.
In the basement were exhibitions, demonstrations and sales of Kyoto
handicrafts. We were treated to fashion
parade of stunning costumes and admired kyo-yuzen, Kyoto’s local silk dyeing
before spending big….as you must whilst on holidays!
Next was the studio of commercial hand weavers to see intricate silk weaving of an obi or kimono. The OrinasukanMuseum (a collection of hand-made textiles) was housed in a weaving factory in the Nishijin precinct. Nishi-jin ori is a special weaving technique for silk and this textile is only made in Kyoto. The Orinasukan Museum was set up to promote and preserve Kyoto’s handmade fabrics and support original thread dyeing techniques.
On our way back to the hotel we discovered a local market in progress and nosed our way in to see if there was anything of interest. I’m not entirely sure but can assume it was the Myoren-ji Temple, which has a market on the 12th of each month.
