Cultural Immersion

Ryokan Etiquette

Ryokan Hakuun

Perhaps it would be better to say up front that we didn’t quite master the fine art of “Ryokan Etiquette”.  However our hosts at Ryokan Hakuun were most accommodating and our days spent in the lovely village of Takayama passed way too quickly. 

So, let’s begin!  We arrived full of expectation.  Shoes were removed at the front door.  Then we were shown to our large room screened off with shoji (rice paper) screens and tatami mat flooring.  Only a single low table was centred in the room.  On the table we found our arrival tea waiting for us. 

 

Our traditional inn had a hot spring (onsen) although only a few guests followed the Japanese custom of the hot communal soak.  Some of the rooms had a traditional timber tub and we learned that the custom is to shower and soap yourself first before stepping into the tub (no soap – soaking only).  We also discovered the (toilet or bathroom) slippers routine and were caught out more than once in embarrassing circumstances. 

 

Doors to our rooms

 

After bathing, we went to our dining room dressed in a provided blue & white cotton yukata (wrapped left over right thank you) to meet up with our fellow travellers for a sumptuous feast of assorted Japanese foods.   We finished it off with a taste of sake…hmmm…not so sure about that!

Our first night's dinner

We retired to our beds - futons had been laid out on tatami mats.  All that cool country air, picture perfect streets in the old town, doses of cherry blossom and now a nice warm bed!  It was all very relaxing. 

Seafood Dinner

A wonderful view through every door

 

Year of the Rabbit

Shopping Heaven

A delight to Quilters' Eyes

Takayama, first settled in the Jomon period, was named after the castle built over 450 years ago on Shiroyama (Castle Hill). The town's high altitude and geographic separation kept it isolated, allowing it to develop its own culture. 

The Castle was destroyed in 1695 during the Edo Period.  During this time people were separated into distinct classes – samurai, farmers, craftsmen and merchants as dictated under the military rule of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Were it not for the flood of tourists, you could almost imagine yourself in the Takayama of those times.  

The centre of town, although compact, is a maze of narrow streets.  The streets are lined with traditional dark wooden houses preserved in the style of Edo days.  Tiny shops were brim full of interesting things – especially if you are interested in crafts.  We had a field day gathering sashiko threads, special sewing scissors and amazing indigo dyed fabrics.

Close to the centre of the town is the Miyagawa morning market.  This market has been in operation for over 200 years selling crafts, local produce, souvenirs and street food. They’re located by the banks of the Miyagawa River, so we strolled and shopped, stopping from time to time to watch carp in the river as they lazily swam by us.  It was the year of the rabbit.  Everything seemed to have one stamped or patterned on to it.  So we just had to stop ourselves from going crazy for these loveable creatures.

 

You can see why we were in raptures!

Sadly we were unable that evening to meet with a local quilting group.  We consoled ourselves by taking a little more time to scour the streets of old Takayama for that perfect take home souvenir – oh, and find a few more fabrics. 

 

Into the Alps

Old World

Sights along the Rail Line

We were rather excited to start our journey today. It was to be an experience - a little of old world Japan.  We took the Shinkansen to Nagoya (1 hr) and then limited express (2 hrs) to Takayama, high in Japan Alps.  We were to visit Edo era villages and museums, stay in a ryokan (a traditional inn) and sleep on cosy futons. On the floor!

Cherry Blossom at last!

First stop however was the Hida Minzoku Mura Folk Village.  This collection of 30 traditional farmhouses is located in a stunning mountain setting only 10 mins from Takayama.  Built during the Edo period (1603-1867), the gassho-style farmhouses featured thatched, gabled roofs, named after their resemblance to hands clasped in prayer. Their large attics allowed the villagers to raise silkworms (sericulture).

Stairs in the Attic

Our group were able to walk through this wonderful open air museum, explore darkened farmhouses and see all kinds of tools & utensils.  We also came across one or two folk tending to their chores and were especially pleased when we found an old lady happily sitting in the sun stitching.  Still, the Folk Village gave us an understanding of the challenges faced by villagers during that era.

Sashiko Stitching

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