Traditional Costumes

 

The Aoi Matsuri, one of the oldest festivals in the world (6^th c), is named after the spiked leaves of the aoi (hollyhock).  The leaves are said to have various powers including protection against lightning and earthquakes. 

The main event is the grand procession, which we had booked in to see, although there are other events going on such as an archery display on horseback at the Shimogamo Shrine and a horse race between two teams dressed in 8^th c costumes at the Kamigamo Shrine. 

The Aoi Matsuri festival procession is made up of two parts: the Imperial Messenger’s retinue and that of the Saio-dai, a young woman who is the focus of the parade. It is traditionally celebrated on the 15^th May.

The Imperial Messenger’s procession consists of a carriage pulled by oxen, flowered umbrellas, courtiers and court ladies dressed in costumes of noble court life during the Heian period (794-1185). In Heian times the Saio-dai was always an imperial princess.  She rides on a palanquin and is dressed in imperial Heian robes of 12 layers. (I had found an interesting video showing how these heavy robes are worn but the link is broken.  Maybe one day I'll happen upon another.) The colourful retinue of followers (some 600 participants) also wear costumes of the imperial court; all decorated in some way with the hollyhock leaf.  The parade proceeds from the Imperial Palace to Shimoganmo Shrine and then on to Kamigamo Shrine where final ritual ceremonies take place.  In terms of manners and customs, this parade is certainly a colourful reminder of ancient traditions.   

We saw the parade from a vantage point near the Imperial Palace (1855) considered central Kyoto, once a walled district dating from the 16^th c.  The Palace’s original structure dates from 794, but fire and earthquake has seen it demolished on occasions.  Enthronement ceremonies and state functions are still held here.  The Palace is surrounded by a beautiful park and after the parade had snaked its way passed us, we strolled along its perimeter to look for cherry blossom remnants which were quickly disintegrating in the rain. 

Imperial Palace

 

Tree art

My humble notes from this trip remind me that we stopped at a local Maccas desperate for a milk fix.  It's quite amazing what you miss from your normal diet and what lengths you will go to find it.  We rounded off the shake with a green tea ice-cream though - definitely a favourite local treat!

On the way back we walked over the Kamogawa River, said to have exceptional waters for setting dyes. Sadly, the rain set in so we didn’t get to the antique district with its speciality textile & craft shops.  Another day perhaps!

Ginza Lowdown

Sensational Quilts

This was one of those days when you are so pleased someone else is responsible for knowing where and when you have to be in certain places.  Our schedule was punishing but we wanted to make the most of a day in Tokyo and a visit to the Quilt Exhibition.  We obligingly bought our bento boxed lunch, stopping to admire a few interesting ones on the station platform, and marvelled at how polite everyone was. 

The train arrived on time, in exactly the right spot (marked on the platform) and within a short time we were speeding our way towards Tokyo on the Shinkansen – say that again, the Shinkansen. 

Mt Fuji declined to make a show for us, although we took photos anyway because our trip back to Kyoto would be much later in the evening. 

Meiji Shrine is located in a park, a tranquil spot in a busy city.  Built in 1920 in honour of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, it was destroyed in WW2 and reconstructed in 1958.  It’s the place to see traditional Shinto weddings.  Somehow, our timing was perfect and we saw some lovely traditional costumes.

Shinto Wedding at the Meiji Shrine

In contrast, it would seem that some of Tokyo’s youth prefer a more outlandish dress.  We stopped on our way in Harajuku (also see Jingu Bashi) to people watch as the young ones strutted their stuff in wild to conservative costume; more for each other I think, than the many tourist cameras flashing.   Close by is the Omotosando-dori area where we (over) indulged at the Oriental Bazaar, a wonderland of all things exotic for tourists, including textiles.  I concentrated on buying fabric tailor samples which are just so lovely.  Maybe I’ll stop looking and get on with some sewing?  No promises – even to myself! 

Nurses & Doctors were the theme for this year..

After negotiating the subway (& deciphering ticket machines) we made for the fabulous Ginza Quilt Exhibition.  We were not able to take photos of this quilt show, so all I have is of a few that decorated the front window and entrance to the exhibits.  The Empress’s Kimono was on display too (just one of many I’m guessing) but no photos so no memory…  The exhibition was inspirational, the merchant’s stalls amazing and we took a headful of ideas away with a few notes & sketches; and a certain envy of the high quality workmanship! 

Outside the Quilt Exhibition, we were fortunate to meet up with one of Margaret’s friends.  We spoke briefly before heading off for some more shopping, this time “real” fabric stores.  A highlight was the multistorey Yuzawaya (I think?), although a cash only policy came as a shock to us at the end of a big spend day.  Y & I were already over our daily limits having hit Mitsukoshi in Nihonbashi and were weighed down by our earlier purchases anyway.  But soldier on we must; somehow our wallets stretched to buy just that little bit more.

(There’s plenty of helpful & up-to-date information on the internet if you want to visit fabric & craft stores in Tokyo.  Try this advice from comeonilene who can direct you to some interesting shops. Enjoy the planning process!) 

Butterfly Dancing

Glimpsing Geisha  

First stop on our itinerary was Ryoanji Temple raked gardens in the Rakusai precinct.  These gardens feature in the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” not to mention many famous artworks since they were built. This Zen karesansui (dry landscape) is made up of large rocks set in a landscape of sand & pebbles. It is meant to induce a state of “unadorned bliss”.

After not quite achieving a state of serenity due to the influx of fellow travellers, we moved on from Ryoanji, to the nearby Kinkakuji Temple, renowned for its Golden Pavilion and spectacular walking gardens.

Although we came across few textiles, it was certainly clear that artists could not fail to be inspired by these wonderful surroundings.

Inspired after our garden visit, we were treated to a wonderful reminder of Kyoto’s traditional past.  The Kamogawa Odori is an annual dance festival performed by Pontocho geisha (or geiko as they are known in Kyoto) and maiko (geiko in training).  These performances allow visitors a glimpse into the exquisite Japanese art that is usually only available to the affluent.

Pontocho, designed by the Portuguese in the Edo era, is now full of restaurants and teahouses – and tourists!  The Pontocho entertainment district is set along the west bank of the Kamogawa River and has long been renowned for the beauty and theatrical abilities of its dancers. In the Odori (1872), make-up, textiles, costumes and stage design must all meet the demanding standards of the long-established geiko’s world. 

All performances we watched were sophisticated and very colourful with an obvious high criteria to meet.  We were reminded of what remains (and once was) Japan’s famous “flower & willow” world.  This world is symbolised in the “Dream of the Butterfly” dance.  We were fortunate to have tickets at Pontocho’s Kaburenjo Theatre to watch maiko perform. Sadly, we were unable to take photos (but understand why) so my only reminders are a few brochures and tickets we picked up along the way. 

I should add that geiko (Kyoto geisha) means refined person.  They continue to be entertainers of the highest order (& well beyond our budget to see perform).  We are so fortunate to have these women maintaining a tradition and cultural heritage in our modern society.

One of my favourite reads is the classic work of Murasaki Shikabu, “The Tale of the Genji”.  This work is considered the world’s first novel and dates from the Heian Period (794-1185) .  Even more amazing is that it has been written by a woman (given the very strict codes of conduct prevalent in society at that time).  More about it on wiki here & a little on a previous post.

Utagawa (1797-1861) - a stunning print based on the novel

Mitsuoki (1617-1691) portrait of Murasaki Shikabu

Rare Fibres

Blue Heaven

Like all things new, we found bus procedure a challenge at first.  We entered through the rear door and exited via the front door, dropping our coins into a clever machine near the driver as we left.  It even gave out change.  Our destination was the Nishijin Precinct and we looked forward to exploring this heritage textile district, said to be as old as the city itself.

First stop was the amazing Aizenkobo Workshop of Master Indigo Dyer, Kenichi Utsuki.  He has a particularly attractive white noren curtain hanging over his front door.  This would be our first hands on experience of a real dyeing workshop using real indigo; great vats of the stuff bubbling away, sending out interesting wafts and staining everything it touched.  Mmmmm, can’t wait!  

Kyoto shibori is known as kyo-kanoko, another of Kyoto’s lovingly handmade textiles.  I chose a pre-tied shibori scarf (no-one could wait for me to tie it myself – a few years would be needed!) for this indigo tie dying experience.  We were surrounded by artisans and apprentices – just to be sure we got it right. 

Afterwards. Mr Kenichi Utsuki showcased his tsutsugaki collection as we sat transfixed on tatami mats in his traditional kyo-machiya (wooden townhouse). The wow factor was big that day and we learned so much about traditional Japanese textiles.  Of course, we all wanted to rush home and decorate in the rustic Japanese farmhouse style with lots of indigo fabrics and tatami mats.                                

Just around the corner from the Aizenkobo studio is Nishijin Textile Centre famous for its kimono, obi, weaving displays and craft sales.  In the basement were exhibitions, demonstrations and sales of Kyoto handicrafts.  We were treated to fashion parade of stunning costumes and admired kyo-yuzen, Kyoto’s local silk dyeing before spending big….as you must whilst on holidays!

Next was the studio of commercial hand weavers to see intricate silk weaving of an obi or kimono.  The OrinasukanMuseum (a collection of hand-made textiles) was housed in a weaving factory in the Nishijin precinct.  Nishi-jin ori is a special weaving technique for silk and this textile is only made in Kyoto. The Orinasukan Museum was set up to promote and preserve Kyoto’s handmade fabrics and support original thread dyeing techniques. 

On our way back to the hotel we discovered a local market in progress and nosed our way in to see if there was anything of interest. I’m not entirely sure but can assume it was the Myoren-ji Temple, which has a market on the 12th of each month.

Travelling with Locals

Cherry Blossom

Next morning we met to begin our tour.  On the way to the bus station and through the Kyoto Train Station, we explored food options including a huge food hall (depachika) in the Department store basement.  DJ’s, move over!  Here we came into contact with Japan’s favourite takeaway, the bento box lunch.  We were able to collect our Japan Rail passes inside the train station. Thus armed, we took off by bus to explore Kyoto’s offerings.  

We made our way up “Tea Pot Hill” climbing steep cobblestone paths lined with wonderful pottery shops.  Our destination, providing we didn’t stop too often to admire delicate Japanese tea sets, was Kiyomizu temple. 

The temple is a vast complex of shrines and pagodas built into a hillside with wonderful views across Kyoto.  Kiyomizu means “pure water” and many Japanese visit to take the sacred waters of the Otowa-no-taki Falls that flow through the complex. 

We were lucky enough to catch site of some maiko in beautiful traditional costumes amongst the madly flowering azaleas.  It was too late in the season for that burst of sweet pink cherry blossom (sakura) though.

Maiko with their red collars



Gion, on the eastern bank of the Kamogawa River is Edo era Japan and was developed to suit the needs of travellers and tourists in medieval times.  It became known for its tea houses (ochaya), famed for its geisha (geiko), and popular for its auspicious temples.  We learned that apprentice geisha are locally called maiko and their quarters, okiya. 

After exploring the Heian Shrine and its beautiful surrounding gardens (where we met an Australian exchange student), we made our way to the Museum of Traditional Craft & Industry.

Sadly I can’t remember a lot about this museum, however I have a couple of photos of some delightful silk fabrics that were on display.  Many silks are only woven in Kyoto and some are still loomed by hand.

Perhaps one of the best references I have for Japanese textiles is the book written by Sunny Yang and Rochelle M. Narasin "Textile Art of Japan" (2000).

  

Silks from the Museum of Traditional Craft & Industry

Fun & Excitement

Green Tea 

We arrived in the night and fell, full of airline food into our beds.  Our rooms in the New Miyako just across from the Kyoto Train Station, were cosily European, even with a fridge and tea making facilities.  So we unloaded our pre-purchased “tipple of choice”, arranged breakfast cereals and other snacks (we had carried from Australia) then, after a cup of green tea, promptly went to sleep.

Even small gardens were filled with beautiful blooms

Our tour based itself in Kyoto, which meant we had an easy time – no constant packing and unpacking with only an overnight bag for our trip up into the Japan Alps.  Of course the serious danger of this strategy meant that our bags began to bulge almost immediately. Kyoto was Japan’s capital for over 1000 years, so delightful fabric (of society?) can be experienced on every corner, almost.

(Doing my research, I’ve discovered that a number of venues we visited have changed since 2000.  So please don’t head off to Kyoto before ensuring that the places you might want to see are still in existence. This is an excellent information resource for Kyoto.)

Flowers even graced a weaving factory workplace

Visiting Kyoto in 2000

Konichi-wa again!  At last it is time to collect all my Japanese bits & bobs together and write something of our too brief tour (May 2000).  Luckily we had signed up for a textile specific tour.  I was really excited – largely because someone else was producing all the historic textile detail and special workshops or visits were arranged for us!  So just sit back and enjoy the ride.

Wonderful views

Speaking of ride, the group consisted of 12 ladies.  We based ourselves in Kyoto, Japan's ancient capital for over 1000 years.  We bussed and trained locally, rode the fast train to Tokyo and took a scenic train ride into the hills to visit Takayama. We walked through markets and narrow streets, explored monuments and shopped at busy city department stores.  We ate at local cafés, experienced traditional foods and customs, made good use of the nearby train station’s supermarket and got to really like sushi. All this without speaking a word of Japanese!  Margaret, our tour leader, had language skills which stood us in good stead but we were always treated with kindness and good humour.  Even waiting resolutely in line to use the only European toilet in the train station ladies block…. 

and inspiration

I’ve deliberately left descriptions quite simple given the historical information packed into the previous historical notes.  I don’t have as many photos as I’d like either.  Pre-digital of course! Despite taking endless “rolls”, they’re invariably poor quality and I’m disappointed to have so few photos of the truly amazing things we saw and did.  I don’t intend to give a detailed account of each and every textile experience we had; there’s too much learned study out there and being some 13 years ago, my memory is hazy.  Besides you really have to live the experience.  Books, photographs or videos can never replace the thrill of really being there. Just go!

on every corner.