Indigo - Taking it Further than Ever

At Book Depository

While on the subject of colour, try to get your hands on Victoria Finlay’s fascinating travelogue, “Color”.  Aside from interesting facts about the history and development of various colours (murex – a purple from predatory sea snails), you really begin to understand how important colour has been to us through-out history. 

There's a chapter dedicated to indigo and it makes you really think about how world's collided as the demand for these natural colouring substances increased.  The ready availability of synthetic dyes has certainly changed us.

Why do we love colour?  Mary Schoeser suggests in "World Textiles" that the period between 3000 – 400BC (Bronze & Iron Ages) is more a Dye and Loom Age.  Discoveries reveal advanced skills in both crafts; more than we credit them for having had.  These skills have left a cultural imprint that is still significant and very relevant today. It’s in our bones you see….

In my Indian indigo kurta in Nepal, 2005

Indigo is the oldest known dye, dating to about 2500BC, and the earliest centre for its production and processing is considered to be India.  Indigo, a heavenly blue, has been seen as a sign of wealth and luxury; having protective properties – both spiritually and for health reasons (insect repellent) across many civilizations  and an embryonic motivator in world resource trading (and cross-cultural sharing?). 

Indigo from Hill Tribes in Vietnam, 2007

Hill Tribes in Vietnam continue an indigo tradition to this day. It is a complex mix of highly technical skills learnt over generations and infused religious/spiritual beliefs. In Japan’s Edo Period, indigo dyed cotton was quite possibly the uniform of the masses since silk was a forbidden cloth, unless you were the emperor, of course!  That tradition lives on today and no more so than in our favourite casual wear – blue jeans. We, who work with our hands, call ourselves blue collar workers……

At the Aizome Workshop in Kyoto, 2000

I had the great privilege in 2000 (still looking for my photos) of meeting a 3^rd generation Aizome (indigo dye) Master, Kenichi Utsuki in Aizenkobo, at his family’s aizome studio, itself dating from 1850’s.  Located deep in the fascinating and historic Nishijin textile neighbourhood of old Kyoto, we struggled to find the studio, being waylaid by so many seriously tempting sights.  Not to worry, the smell of the fermenting vats of dye led us to his studio door.  If you love to dye, if you love sensuous shades of blue, if you thrill at the look and touch of traditional hand-dyed fabrics, if you gasp at the skills of a master dyer, then this is definitely the place to be.

Shades of Indigo in Yorktown USA, 2009

So why am I bringing this to your attention?  Well, indigo was eventually a major crop for South Carolina (and thrived in Jamaica and the Virgin Islands) so it is hardly surprising that Yorktown farmers in 1780's were using it to colour their clothes.

Blue glazed tiles from Yorktown.
Blue was a favourite colour

Not an Exact Science

If you want to try some natural dyes yourself
 follow India Flint's instructions. Try Amazon

Getting back to those beautiful natural dyes, early settlers in the Tidewater had 3 dye sources readily on hand – animal, vegetable and mineral.  Mineral of course goes back to 3000BC perhaps when some early artist found that ochres stained his (or her) animal skin cape or twig brushes. 

Over the years, others noted that there were  dyes which left a lasting colour without help (substantive; like beetroot juice on my white shirt!) and others, adjective dyes, which required some pre-treatment of the base fabric with a mordant to help the dyes bite.  The oldest known mordant is urine but alum, tin or iron is more common.  After the dye has taken, it needs to be “set”, commonly with a salt and vinegar mix. 

Aniline dyes were developed in the 1850’s; a chemical process which produced vivid colours.  Procion dye is one I’ve recently played with but along with technical advance, comes inherent dangers and the need to wear a face mask, rubber gloves and big aprons. And be especially careful when discarding unwanted mixtures. I also used a washing machine (heaps of water) and a dryer (heaps of electricity) to arrive at a finished product. 

Sample Board : Black Walnut, Brazilwood & Cochineal

So heritage or natural dyes seem a much gentler alternative.  Samples at the Yorktown 1780’s farm included dyes made from locally available materials –  black walnut, brazilwood, cochineal (from Central America), indigo (a major crop for South Carolina) or woad, logwood, madder, onion skins and of course, tobacco leaves made up a modest but beautifully soft palette. 

Sample Board: Logwood, Madder, Onion Skins & Tobacco

Preparing a dye pot is also time consuming and requires, even today, lots of chopping, grinding and crushing. Many recipes are closely guarded secrets.  Luckily, India Flint, a talented Aussie, has shared many of her secrets in her book, Eco Colour. Otherwise, there are a few easy recipes out there if you scour the internet.  

Me, I’m off to find a bit of fabric.  I’ve just cut a pomegranate and it has the most beautiful ruby red juice I’ve ever seen!    

Frontier Dyeing on the Tidewater



1780's Farm

Whilst exploring the 1780’s farm in the Victory Center in Yorktown (USA), I discovered something that sent my textile radar into overdrive. 

Now we all love colour, right?  Well, down in a small shed on the other side of the garden was a small basket of cotton ready for carding and a sample board of dyed fabrics.  The colours were amazing – a subtle palette of natural dyes…

Herbs drying in the Kitchen

Jamestown, across the Colonial Parkway, was settled by English colonists in 1607; the beginning of English Colonial America 1607 – 1781. We've all heard of Captain John Smith and Pocahontas?  Yorktown was later settled in 1691 and grew to become a sizeable and busy port in what was known as the Tidewater region. Tobacco was its main commodity, which was grown on small farms surrounding the port.  These farms were generally 2-3 acres and fertile enough to support crops of tobacco and foodstuffs.  Families of 6-8 lived in a one or two roomed cottage. The kitchen, a barn for drying tobacco, a walled kitchen garden and smaller storage areas were located nearby. Self-sufficiency was de rigueur.

Collage of farm shots

This translates into finding time in their already busy schedules to grow their own animal or vegetable fibre (cotton or wool), then prepare it ready for spinning, weaving and colouring.  Once they had cloth, it had to be then sewn (by hand!) into clothing or practical household goods such as blankets.  I wonder how many of our fashion divas would survive this homespun life?

More River Ramblings

Try Amazon or Book Depository

I've not long finished reading Kate Grenville's "The Secret River" and can recommend it as a wonderful, even riveting read.  It is of course an historical novel set in part, on the Hawkesbury River. I really felt her connection with the river.  Kate Grenville saw it as a living thing; part of an ancient landscape. Her story tells of  the not-so-easy life of our early settlers; some rouges and scoundrels, others mesmerised by opportunities.  It also tells of the fate of some of our original inhabitants, but I won't spoil the story for you.  It does make you want to do a bit of work tracing your own family history though!

Australia Day 2010 on the Hawkesbury River

Quilts on Display 2010

On Australia Day (26^th January), Dangar Island opened to the world and hosted ferry loads of visitors to an art/crafts extravaganza.  Island quilters put up a decent show of their work.  Other artists opened up their studios and the Café, the Community Hall and the Bowlo’s hosted arty/foodie events.  A community spirited Cap'n put on his BBQ apron and helped dish up countless hot roast lamb sandwiches. This was held on the second hottest day of the summer season... so it seemed.

These pics are from the Quilting Exhibition (obviously).  We all work in different styles and that tends to make for an interesting display.

Some of the quilts were done as community quilts or round robins. although that was before my time as an islander.  I think it's an amazing display for a small group.

Volunteer duty to cook an Island Breakfast
at the Cafe

Dangar Island Cafe

And here is everyone's favourite island cafe....  Come visit us soon!  

Textile Offerings

Ancient Peruvian Textile

Everyone will tell you that NY is a Fashion City.  Labels are simply everywhere and sold in emporiums like Macy's and Bloomingdales, not to mention those 5th Ave Boutiques.  However, here's a roundup of textiles that interested me.

We stopped in Bloomingdales briefly and discovered, quite by chance, a showing of Batman costumes (on the men's level). Of course, how could you take your eyes off that amazing catwoman outfit worn by Michelle Pfeiffer?  Other stunning outfits included Danny DeVito's Penguin, Jim Carey's Riddler and the very detailed gown worn by Poison Ivy. This display won a quiet gold star from us - no crowds, no noise and a close up view of all that detailed stitchery.  Batman or not, it did not inspire himself to run off and buy a pair of cute, designer undies.

Natural History Museum

The Lion King on Broadway was our next stop.  It is a stunning musical with creative, colourful costumes galore - and we really loved the themed music. The puppeteer's costumes lean heavily on Mbuti mudcloth designs whilst Simba and Scar wear Kuba designs.  The only photo op presented itself at the entrance to the theatre (Rafiki), but at least it's one to take home. There are plenty of web sites out there giving you some idea if you haven't had the chance to see the play.

Lobby Kuba Cloth

Speaking of African cloth, it took me a few days to realise that our apartment building used textiles as lobby artworks.  A nice applique piece of woven raffia Kuba cloth is displayed on the ground floor; the pic isn't good as it was in an awkward position in the lobby and I had to be discreet...  The motif is said to be the most common in Kuba craftwork and is known as "the tail of a dog".  Otherwise, I saw on other floors embroidered pieces of Indian origin.  It would have been nice to know what else was on display.

The Museum of Natural History had some fabulous costumes and other textiles.  I've included a few shots - most are through glass so there's some reflection and, of course, flash is not allowed.  I didn't note the specifics of each unfortunately, so this is my excuse to go back if I want to list them all.  Now that I think back, it would have been interesting to find out where they managed to find those vivid pinks and light blues.  Are they ancient vegetable dye recipes?   Certainly silks for the Korean costumes dyed during the Confucian period must have been.

Even marble can look like a diaphanous textile

Metal Suits for Man & Beast

I didn't follow up on costume in the Met having been so overwhelmed by furnishings and décor.  But these few photos look at textiles from a different perspective. I believe that knights of old used to wear quilted garments under that heavy armour.  And clothing was all hand stitched in those days.

Not textile but lots of gold leaf expertly applied and so inspirational

My favourite guide for textiles has generally been "World Textiles" by Gillow and Sentance, 1999.  What is yours?

Side Orders

Our NY City Survival Guide - more or less!

Look who's out for a walk too...

We purchased a weekly bus pass.  It was an excellent and very convenient way to travel around the city.  

Trusty runners (good walking shoes) were also very helpful.  You really feel less like a tourist on a hectic schedule and notice lots more on shank’s ponies (two legs!).  

We also have folding bikes (on floating home, WJ3), which are very handy when transport is not so common and interesting things are a bit out of the way.  I’m not sure I’d be game to ride in downtown NY.  All that traffic and driving on the wrong side of the road!

No Fashionista but at least dry...

Circle Line Tours or similar hop on/hop off orientation tours might seem a bit twee but are well worth the money.  We usually take them early in our stay to familiarise ourselves with new surroundings and to help in making those all important decisions about our "must sees".  

In NYC we did even better; we had a local guide who knew all the best spots.  

And if he didn’t, he had friends who did…. 

Meals are huge.  Be warned that for Australians abroad in NY, a US entrée is our main and OZ entrée is our starter.  Got it?  Don’t order an entrée size thinking you will be doing a good thing for your waistline.  We also found that ordering an entrée might also mean just a meat serving.  Vegetables or salad then comes as a side order at an additional cost.  Eating out or even ordering a coffee is just, well, part of the scene in NY.  A kitchen - what’s that?

Just everyone eats out!

Another Grump out on the Street!

Avoid tourist hot-spots and eat where the locals eat - goes without saying really!  We wanted to take our host out for a nice dinner.  Lured by the view from a revolving restaurant near Times Square, we were quite unprepared to be stitched over.  The expensive buffet left a lot to be desired.

There are grumps everywhere, aren't there!