New Textiles Same Tourist

My photos do not do these saris justice

I've just realised that the previous design template didn't have an archive capability. (This was on the old Typepad blog.  All fixed now. Ed)  Not good when I started posting in 2007!  So here we are without  nice header photos, no tags courtesy of the move from Vox and a few interesting text colours now scattered throughout.  But at least there is an archive list.... 

If you are wondering why there is so little action on this site in recent months, then put your sunnies on and click to my new blog here.  Yes, lots of bright photos and interesting new things!  (The photos are two saris I found in India)

Sting Ray Quilters

Deltaville VA: 2 Aug 2010  

Martha busy at work guarded by Buddy & Otis

Martha and her husband own a NAPA (car bits & pieces shop) just off the road to Deltaville Marina.  Over a side door is a sign for her business, “Martha’s Long Arm Quilting”.  I had been meaning to stop in and now wished I had made the effort a lot sooner!  Martha is a member of the Sting Ray Quilters, the local Deltaville quilting group meeting monthly at a nearby church hall.  I was invited to come along and meet some very keen quilters. 

Sting Ray Quilters

This popular group (nearly 40 attended that night) makes block of the month raffles, raffles a monthly mini-quilt and gives out birthday fat quarters, offers regular workshops for its members and supports charitable quilt making. Phew!  That’s a busy group.  And despite all this activity, some ladies even manage to make a quilt or two for themselves as well.  Jeanne Rose gave us a lesson on woollen penny quilts that night and I was surprised with a Garden Blossoms kit as a gift.  Sue kindly drove me (and my bike) home to C Dock.  It turned out Sue’s husband had made the frames for our solar panels.  As they say - it’s a small world.

Show and Tell with Sting Ray Quilters

Whilst at Martha’s I had a quick look at her computerised Gamil and peeked at various patterns that she was able to program into it to create rather nice quilted effects. I'm having thoughts about bringing some UFO's back with me next year as sadly I doubt I could fit one of those enormous machines in my garden shed!  Martha is keenly supervised by Buddy and Otis, two very stately hound dogs and guests are closely eyed by an alert blue heeler.  Now, that’s just what I need to keep the boys out of my garden shed! 

Catching Up with Colonial Artisans

Making Baskets

Well, I can’t bid farewell to Williamsburg without acknowledging those skilled artisans who dress in period costume (not such fun in the heat), keep you informed on the political goings on of the day (1770’s), answer heaps of questions about all sorts of things…historical or otherwise and finally are active craftspeople in their “trade” with knowledge of skills both past and modern.

I sat for a while listening to a Basketmaker explain her craft.  It was her day to sit under a shady tree in Main Street away from her cottage and the trappings of her trade.

The baskets she hand wove were made from oak, split into fine pieces and supported by stronger rings.  They would have been used for all sorts of utilitarian purposes including fish traps and food storage.

The Milliner wasn’t making hats but showed us ribbons, a fabric sample book and various sewing notions that we could purchase to decorate our own.  We gossiped about who wore what to the Governor’s Ball (someone’s blue gown matched the painted blue walls!) and new fashions in the colonies.

Milliner & her wares

We talked about expensive fabrics were and how dresses were often dyed or had new bodice inserts or perhaps a new petticoat to “freshen” them up.  Only the very rich could afford silks but there was some beautiful printed fabrics imported from India.

An apprentice stood in the corner marking out pattern pieces ready to stitch (hopefully not by hand) into a fashionable garment for a fashionable Williamsburg customer.

Spinning Cotton

I managed to catch the Weaver 15 minutes before closing.  She was carding and spinning cotton ready for her looms.  She showed us samples of fabrics that would have been woven and explained how plantations had regular orders for specific patterns.  She believed this may have been a way of identifying slaves. 



In the Weaver's Shop

We were shown dyed skeins of cotton and wool – all natural dyes – and a bowl of cochineal “bugs”.  In the 18^th century, Williamsburg was the capital of Virginia, a huge state that spread from east to west coasts. Cochineal would have been brought to the colonies and Williamsburg’s wealthy citizens from the West Indies by trading ships. 


Charletons Coffeehouse

Finally, a little praise for unsung artisans!  Charlton’s Coffeehouse sported the latest in fashionable wallpapers and carpets, while quirky signage stood grandly outside various cottages, taverns and shops.  It is hard to imagine how a population that could hardly read or write might interpret some of these signs - I’m sure the alehouses needed no introduction! 

The Governor’s Palace was superbly decorated; from grand bedrooms to functional offices, even hanging birdcages with their colourful occupants.  Gardeners worked apace to keep the grounds looking spectacular, the maze a treat and a lush home (heritage) vegetable garden surrounded by grape vines and espaliered fruit trees productive.  Self-sufficiency was the order of the day but it sure could be done in style – especially if you had a King’s ransom!

Williamsburg Colonial Delights

Above are a selection of some of these elaborate an decorative goodies used in the mansion.  Inspiring are they not?  We'd like to thank the parlour maid for showing us the house, given that a grand ball was held later that evening and preparations were underway.  I felt like I was in a Jane Austen novel.  So much fun at Williamsburg!

Folk Art: Whimsical & Fantasy

Colonial Williamsburg: 18-19 July 2010

English Quilt Williamsburg

Having visited Jamestown and Yorktown in 2009, it was time to see Colonial Williamsburg.  It did not disappoint!  The DeWitt Wallace Museum had a lovely English quilt (wholecloth) that was embroidered within an inch of its life – most likely by a professional needlewoman.  It is dated 1690 -1720 and is silk thread on linen.  Further on was a special exhibit of quilted clothing – mostly petticoats.  The stitching was amazing and the designs very creative; from sea motifs to lush flowering designs.  Many of these garments, when unfashionable, saw new lives as whole quilt bed coverings.  Fabric was very expensive at the time and every scrap worth a fortune.

Quilt Story

The Abby Aldrich Rockefeller folk art collection has grown from a donated collection into an inspiring display that characterises the wit, humour and creative flair of early America.  We did take an introductory tour of the collection highlights, but I wanted more time to see windvanes, signage and musical instruments.  

A whimsical carousel stood as centrepiece in a display that included items as far ranging as ships figureheads to junkyard windvanes.  My favourite was a wooden hippo housing a record player (Are there still people alive who remember records??).  Anyway, his tongue waggled as the music played!

Carousel Cat

Later, I found a section of quilts (none from Virginia I was told!) that represented quilting of the Colonial period and later.  There had on show two Gees Bend quilts, a crazy quilt and a number of pieced designs.  Lighting was too subdued to take successful photos but it was nice to have the opportunity to snap away.  Close by was a lovely illustrated diary that commented on life and times in and around Colonial Williamsburg; blogging of the day!  Imagine the time to write to write your diary in lovely copperplate script then illustrate it in soft watercolours. 

I was determined to make a quilted memento of my time in Virginia, and I happened upon a set of Colonial Williamsburg reproduction fabrics in the Museum’s gift shop.  This was supplemented by a pattern I found at the Craft House and inspiration from antique quilts for sale in Quilts Unlimited. Great hopes, she said.....

(Ed Update:  Don't panic!  As at 2013. the quilt still languishes in my head and bits of fabric not yet cut.  However, I did follow Barbara Brackman's Civil War Blog which gave us not only a pattern each week but some very interesting facts and stories of life during those war years.  I think the blog is still up there (BB has published a book of her patterns from this blog) and it makes for an interesting, colourful read.  Perfect for my Colonial Williamsburg fabrics.  I'm sure I'll start soon.)

Designing Woman

Let's hope it will fly

Just to let you know that I’ve actually had some technical input into floating home, WJ3.  I’ve spent many a day with crayons and photocopies of sail patterns to “design” our new spinnaker.  Here it is finally, flat out on the grass – at this stage we aren’t even afloat so seeing it in full flight is unlikely for a while.  Don’t hold your breath.

(Also don't hold your breath for a photo or two.  We are sitting in Starbucks, Staten Island - yes, NY is but a breath away - anchored in Great Kills Harbor.  Starbucks has internet but I can't sit here all day, so posts first and photos later when we can get wifi at anchor - somewhere, anywhere!!!)

Where's Wally Now??

Across the Shenandoah Valley

At the Virginia Quilt Museum in Harrisonburg no less!  (17 July 2010)

After spending too much time worrying about our floating accommodation, we finally took a break.  We had acquainted ourselves (rather too well) with Deltaville VA goings on and the time was ripe to suggest a long haul out to Harrisonburg.  So what and where is Harrisonburg?  Well, for me it is home to Shenandoah Valley Mennonites since 1727 (*) and their renown quilt makers, and best of all, the Virginia Quilt Museum.

A Welcome Sight

The Museum is located in the Warren-Sipe House (1856) on Main Street, in the historic “Old Town” district.  It was very near to our B&B, a Queen Anne period delight, the Joshua Wilton House (1888).  We stayed in the Mauve Room with its antique 4-poster and feather bed.  It was also airconditioned – a relief after our seriously hot & humid Deltaville weather –  too many days of 104F….  Don’t think for one minute that Harrisonburg’s temperatures were any better!  They weren’t.  

The exhibition was the second part of the VQM’s 15^th Anniversary Exhibit Series with highlights from their collection dating from 1810 to 1992.  The exhibition also included some wonderful vintage clothing that attached further meaning to those quilts.  Photos were not allowed and given the age of some of the quilts, that was a sensible decision, but it makes for a dry post….

VQM in Warren Sipe House: with a history all of its own

The Civil War Room, held some beautiful quilts and we were able to glean something of the lives women led during those harsh days/years.  Julie Anne Faulkner’s Crossed Laurel Leaves was stunning.  Malinda Flint showed amazing grit and determination to raise children alone and yet find time to make beautiful quilts like Evening Star and Crossed Canoes.  We were able to see a display of quilts made by Lucinda Robinson Rice, starting at age 5.  Her doll was also on display and this too added deeper understanding of the exhibition.  It is said that a ghost of a Confederate soldier can be seen on the stairs in the house.

Nearby Joshua Wilton Inn 1888 (our B&B)

Works by Linda Poole were also on show.  She’s a very accomplished local quilt artist, and her stitching made me envious, it was so tiny and there was so much of it!   

Upstairs, a room of vintage sewing machines took my eye - I saw my first Singer Featherweight!  I did buy a book of the VQM collection in the gift shop before leaving, but after browsing so many beautiful quilts I’m not sure of the exact ones I saw.  Always wise in hindsight but a definite excuse to travel back to Harrisonburg!

(*) Try reading books by Phyllis Pellman Good

Indigo - Taking it Further than Ever

At Book Depository

While on the subject of colour, try to get your hands on Victoria Finlay’s fascinating travelogue, “Color”.  Aside from interesting facts about the history and development of various colours (murex – a purple from predatory sea snails), you really begin to understand how important colour has been to us through-out history. 

There's a chapter dedicated to indigo and it makes you really think about how world's collided as the demand for these natural colouring substances increased.  The ready availability of synthetic dyes has certainly changed us.

Why do we love colour?  Mary Schoeser suggests in "World Textiles" that the period between 3000 – 400BC (Bronze & Iron Ages) is more a Dye and Loom Age.  Discoveries reveal advanced skills in both crafts; more than we credit them for having had.  These skills have left a cultural imprint that is still significant and very relevant today. It’s in our bones you see….

In my Indian indigo kurta in Nepal, 2005

Indigo is the oldest known dye, dating to about 2500BC, and the earliest centre for its production and processing is considered to be India.  Indigo, a heavenly blue, has been seen as a sign of wealth and luxury; having protective properties – both spiritually and for health reasons (insect repellent) across many civilizations  and an embryonic motivator in world resource trading (and cross-cultural sharing?). 

Indigo from Hill Tribes in Vietnam, 2007

Hill Tribes in Vietnam continue an indigo tradition to this day. It is a complex mix of highly technical skills learnt over generations and infused religious/spiritual beliefs. In Japan’s Edo Period, indigo dyed cotton was quite possibly the uniform of the masses since silk was a forbidden cloth, unless you were the emperor, of course!  That tradition lives on today and no more so than in our favourite casual wear – blue jeans. We, who work with our hands, call ourselves blue collar workers……

At the Aizome Workshop in Kyoto, 2000

I had the great privilege in 2000 (still looking for my photos) of meeting a 3^rd generation Aizome (indigo dye) Master, Kenichi Utsuki in Aizenkobo, at his family’s aizome studio, itself dating from 1850’s.  Located deep in the fascinating and historic Nishijin textile neighbourhood of old Kyoto, we struggled to find the studio, being waylaid by so many seriously tempting sights.  Not to worry, the smell of the fermenting vats of dye led us to his studio door.  If you love to dye, if you love sensuous shades of blue, if you thrill at the look and touch of traditional hand-dyed fabrics, if you gasp at the skills of a master dyer, then this is definitely the place to be.

Shades of Indigo in Yorktown USA, 2009

So why am I bringing this to your attention?  Well, indigo was eventually a major crop for South Carolina (and thrived in Jamaica and the Virgin Islands) so it is hardly surprising that Yorktown farmers in 1780's were using it to colour their clothes.

Blue glazed tiles from Yorktown.
Blue was a favourite colour

Not an Exact Science

If you want to try some natural dyes yourself
 follow India Flint's instructions. Try Amazon

Getting back to those beautiful natural dyes, early settlers in the Tidewater had 3 dye sources readily on hand – animal, vegetable and mineral.  Mineral of course goes back to 3000BC perhaps when some early artist found that ochres stained his (or her) animal skin cape or twig brushes. 

Over the years, others noted that there were  dyes which left a lasting colour without help (substantive; like beetroot juice on my white shirt!) and others, adjective dyes, which required some pre-treatment of the base fabric with a mordant to help the dyes bite.  The oldest known mordant is urine but alum, tin or iron is more common.  After the dye has taken, it needs to be “set”, commonly with a salt and vinegar mix. 

Aniline dyes were developed in the 1850’s; a chemical process which produced vivid colours.  Procion dye is one I’ve recently played with but along with technical advance, comes inherent dangers and the need to wear a face mask, rubber gloves and big aprons. And be especially careful when discarding unwanted mixtures. I also used a washing machine (heaps of water) and a dryer (heaps of electricity) to arrive at a finished product. 

Sample Board : Black Walnut, Brazilwood & Cochineal

So heritage or natural dyes seem a much gentler alternative.  Samples at the Yorktown 1780’s farm included dyes made from locally available materials –  black walnut, brazilwood, cochineal (from Central America), indigo (a major crop for South Carolina) or woad, logwood, madder, onion skins and of course, tobacco leaves made up a modest but beautifully soft palette. 

Sample Board: Logwood, Madder, Onion Skins & Tobacco

Preparing a dye pot is also time consuming and requires, even today, lots of chopping, grinding and crushing. Many recipes are closely guarded secrets.  Luckily, India Flint, a talented Aussie, has shared many of her secrets in her book, Eco Colour. Otherwise, there are a few easy recipes out there if you scour the internet.  

Me, I’m off to find a bit of fabric.  I’ve just cut a pomegranate and it has the most beautiful ruby red juice I’ve ever seen!    

Frontier Dyeing on the Tidewater



1780's Farm

Whilst exploring the 1780’s farm in the Victory Center in Yorktown (USA), I discovered something that sent my textile radar into overdrive. 

Now we all love colour, right?  Well, down in a small shed on the other side of the garden was a small basket of cotton ready for carding and a sample board of dyed fabrics.  The colours were amazing – a subtle palette of natural dyes…

Herbs drying in the Kitchen

Jamestown, across the Colonial Parkway, was settled by English colonists in 1607; the beginning of English Colonial America 1607 – 1781. We've all heard of Captain John Smith and Pocahontas?  Yorktown was later settled in 1691 and grew to become a sizeable and busy port in what was known as the Tidewater region. Tobacco was its main commodity, which was grown on small farms surrounding the port.  These farms were generally 2-3 acres and fertile enough to support crops of tobacco and foodstuffs.  Families of 6-8 lived in a one or two roomed cottage. The kitchen, a barn for drying tobacco, a walled kitchen garden and smaller storage areas were located nearby. Self-sufficiency was de rigueur.

Collage of farm shots

This translates into finding time in their already busy schedules to grow their own animal or vegetable fibre (cotton or wool), then prepare it ready for spinning, weaving and colouring.  Once they had cloth, it had to be then sewn (by hand!) into clothing or practical household goods such as blankets.  I wonder how many of our fashion divas would survive this homespun life?

More River Ramblings

Try Amazon or Book Depository

I've not long finished reading Kate Grenville's "The Secret River" and can recommend it as a wonderful, even riveting read.  It is of course an historical novel set in part, on the Hawkesbury River. I really felt her connection with the river.  Kate Grenville saw it as a living thing; part of an ancient landscape. Her story tells of  the not-so-easy life of our early settlers; some rouges and scoundrels, others mesmerised by opportunities.  It also tells of the fate of some of our original inhabitants, but I won't spoil the story for you.  It does make you want to do a bit of work tracing your own family history though!

Australia Day 2010 on the Hawkesbury River

Quilts on Display 2010

On Australia Day (26^th January), Dangar Island opened to the world and hosted ferry loads of visitors to an art/crafts extravaganza.  Island quilters put up a decent show of their work.  Other artists opened up their studios and the Café, the Community Hall and the Bowlo’s hosted arty/foodie events.  A community spirited Cap'n put on his BBQ apron and helped dish up countless hot roast lamb sandwiches. This was held on the second hottest day of the summer season... so it seemed.

These pics are from the Quilting Exhibition (obviously).  We all work in different styles and that tends to make for an interesting display.

Some of the quilts were done as community quilts or round robins. although that was before my time as an islander.  I think it's an amazing display for a small group.

Volunteer duty to cook an Island Breakfast
at the Cafe

Dangar Island Cafe

And here is everyone's favourite island cafe....  Come visit us soon!  

Textile Offerings

Ancient Peruvian Textile

Everyone will tell you that NY is a Fashion City.  Labels are simply everywhere and sold in emporiums like Macy's and Bloomingdales, not to mention those 5th Ave Boutiques.  However, here's a roundup of textiles that interested me.

We stopped in Bloomingdales briefly and discovered, quite by chance, a showing of Batman costumes (on the men's level). Of course, how could you take your eyes off that amazing catwoman outfit worn by Michelle Pfeiffer?  Other stunning outfits included Danny DeVito's Penguin, Jim Carey's Riddler and the very detailed gown worn by Poison Ivy. This display won a quiet gold star from us - no crowds, no noise and a close up view of all that detailed stitchery.  Batman or not, it did not inspire himself to run off and buy a pair of cute, designer undies.

Natural History Museum

The Lion King on Broadway was our next stop.  It is a stunning musical with creative, colourful costumes galore - and we really loved the themed music. The puppeteer's costumes lean heavily on Mbuti mudcloth designs whilst Simba and Scar wear Kuba designs.  The only photo op presented itself at the entrance to the theatre (Rafiki), but at least it's one to take home. There are plenty of web sites out there giving you some idea if you haven't had the chance to see the play.

Lobby Kuba Cloth

Speaking of African cloth, it took me a few days to realise that our apartment building used textiles as lobby artworks.  A nice applique piece of woven raffia Kuba cloth is displayed on the ground floor; the pic isn't good as it was in an awkward position in the lobby and I had to be discreet...  The motif is said to be the most common in Kuba craftwork and is known as "the tail of a dog".  Otherwise, I saw on other floors embroidered pieces of Indian origin.  It would have been nice to know what else was on display.

The Museum of Natural History had some fabulous costumes and other textiles.  I've included a few shots - most are through glass so there's some reflection and, of course, flash is not allowed.  I didn't note the specifics of each unfortunately, so this is my excuse to go back if I want to list them all.  Now that I think back, it would have been interesting to find out where they managed to find those vivid pinks and light blues.  Are they ancient vegetable dye recipes?   Certainly silks for the Korean costumes dyed during the Confucian period must have been.

Even marble can look like a diaphanous textile

Metal Suits for Man & Beast

I didn't follow up on costume in the Met having been so overwhelmed by furnishings and décor.  But these few photos look at textiles from a different perspective. I believe that knights of old used to wear quilted garments under that heavy armour.  And clothing was all hand stitched in those days.

Not textile but lots of gold leaf expertly applied and so inspirational

My favourite guide for textiles has generally been "World Textiles" by Gillow and Sentance, 1999.  What is yours?

Side Orders

Our NY City Survival Guide - more or less!

Look who's out for a walk too...

We purchased a weekly bus pass.  It was an excellent and very convenient way to travel around the city.  

Trusty runners (good walking shoes) were also very helpful.  You really feel less like a tourist on a hectic schedule and notice lots more on shank’s ponies (two legs!).  

We also have folding bikes (on floating home, WJ3), which are very handy when transport is not so common and interesting things are a bit out of the way.  I’m not sure I’d be game to ride in downtown NY.  All that traffic and driving on the wrong side of the road!

No Fashionista but at least dry...

Circle Line Tours or similar hop on/hop off orientation tours might seem a bit twee but are well worth the money.  We usually take them early in our stay to familiarise ourselves with new surroundings and to help in making those all important decisions about our "must sees".  

In NYC we did even better; we had a local guide who knew all the best spots.  

And if he didn’t, he had friends who did…. 

Meals are huge.  Be warned that for Australians abroad in NY, a US entrée is our main and OZ entrée is our starter.  Got it?  Don’t order an entrée size thinking you will be doing a good thing for your waistline.  We also found that ordering an entrée might also mean just a meat serving.  Vegetables or salad then comes as a side order at an additional cost.  Eating out or even ordering a coffee is just, well, part of the scene in NY.  A kitchen - what’s that?

Just everyone eats out!

Another Grump out on the Street!

Avoid tourist hot-spots and eat where the locals eat - goes without saying really!  We wanted to take our host out for a nice dinner.  Lured by the view from a revolving restaurant near Times Square, we were quite unprepared to be stitched over.  The expensive buffet left a lot to be desired.

There are grumps everywhere, aren't there!